DOG SWEATER TUTORIAL
None (see notes)
Your choice of yarn and hook. For
this tutorial, I used an H hook and
Caron Simply Soft.
sc- single crochet
BLO sc- single crochet back loop
hdc- half double crochet
sl st- slip stitch
HDCtog- half double crochet 2
FO- finish off
This pattern does not use gauge
and there is no specific type of yarn
to use. It can be used with
whatever materials you wish. There
are specific steps of measuring
along the way which will take the
place of needing to know gauge or
make a gauge swatch. This pattern
will work for any size or shape dog.
I have made sweaters for many
dogs with this method- from a
teacup Chihuahua with a 9inch
Yarn- whatever yarn you like to use
chest to a Basset Hound with a
32inch chest. Be sure to read
Hook- whatever hook you find comfortable to
through the pattern especially all
use with that yarn
the notes before beginning.
Scissors, Stitch Markers, 4 Clothespins,
Tape Measure, Tapestry Needle
Easy stripes: Unless you hate weaving in ends, this sweater is very simple to do in stripes. 1, 2,
3 rows of the same before changing colors works well. You will need to join each round if you are
doing stripes, of course, instead of working in the round, and then join the new color and ch2 at
the beginning of each color change. Doing stripes also allows you to use up scraps, which is
always a fabulous thing! Check out embellishment ideas on the website for other creative hints.
TIP: How much yarn?
N = Neck Circumference in inches
F= Fore-chest length in inches
In my experience, it takes less than one 7oz. skein
C = Chest circumference in inches
of worsted weight yarn to make a plain sweater
B = Back length in inches
for a dog up to about 15lbs. A finer yarn, such as
SS, will take a little bit more.
READING THIS TUTORIAL
Throughout this tutorial, the actual pattern is going to be on your left. Any notes or picture guides
will be to the right. Anytime you see a note indicator (#) be sure to read the tip (in green) to the
right. For future sweaters, you will be able to skip the hints and tips, so the pattern will be there
to one side for your convenience.
MY PROJECT- for illustration purposes:
I am making a sweater for my Rat Terrier, Pagan. She is on the small side- 12 lbs. Her
measurements are Neck: 11", Fore-chest- 4", Chest- 17", Back- 13". These are the measurements
I will be working with. I am using about 8oz of Caron SSEco with an H hook.
Starting with the collar-
#I use 5 as a minimum. You can make a tall
collar- like a mock turtleneck- or even taller- like a
real turtleneck which looks very nicely turned, but
5 is the minimum to get a neat, ribbed effect. +1
Row 1- sc in 2nd chain from hook and in
is the turning chain and does not count as a stitch.
each ch across. Ch 1, turn.
#For added strength in the ribbed collar, I
generally do a regular sc in the ends and BLO in
the middle stitches. This does not stretch quite as
much this way, but it also does not stretch out of
Row 2- sc in BLO# across. Ch1, turn.
shape as easily. Unless your dog has a
considerably larger head than neck, it really
doesn't need to stretch too much, but you
certainly do not want it to sag in the future.
This is my collar finished- 5+1 beginning chain- 11
Repeat row 2 until collar = N, ending on an
even number of rows#. Ch1, turn.
# An easy way to tell you have an even number of
rows (without counting over and over) is to be
sure your beginning tail is on the same side of
where your yarn and hook are now.
Joining the collar
Fold collar in half, matching end. Sl st in
each end stitch across, being sure to match
and stitch through both layers. Ch2 and turn
collar right side out (With seam on the
inside) Do not FO. You will not FO until you
are ready to finish the sleeves.
Illustrating beginning to sl st through both layers
#Ch2 counts as hdc throughout. Do not turn
unless otherwise noted. You will be working in
Beginning the body of the sweater
rounds for the next several rows.
R0w 1- (Previous ch2 counts as HDC#) HDC
in the end of each row, increasing every
eighth stitch. Join at top of ch2, ch2. Do not
Fold piece flat, seam in center of top. On
the right and left edges, place a stitch
marker. This will tell you where to increase
The first round (with increases) finished and my
stitch markers in place
Round 2- HDC around, making an increase
at both markers. Do not join. Continue on to
Round 3- HDC around.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3, until the piece
measures F from bottom of collar to edge of
TIP: You will want to measure every few rows to be sure the sweater is increasing enough or not
too much. In WW and Hhook- each row with its 2 increases adds about 1/2 inch circumference.
You may need to add more increase rows, or spread them out further, depending on the
difference between your dog's neck and chest circumferences.
EXAMPLE: My Pagan has an 11inch neck and a 17inch chest- quite a leap. Her sternum is only
four inches- which is only going to get me about 9-10 rows of HDC. I have to make increases on
every row. This is, by the way, why store-bought sweaters never fit her. Remember that you are
getting an extra inch or more already in the first row.
Illustrating checking the measurements and
increases as you go:
Laying the piece flat and measuring from
side to side as you go will let you know how
much more increasing you have to do. If it
measures 8inches across, it is 16inches
circumference. (never mind real math here-
this is crochet math)
You will want to try to increase at regular
intervals to get the neatest fit, but for the
First check: 2.5/F and still need another full inch
first try I wouldn't worry too much about it.
increase for C
Just make a note for future sweaters how
many increase rows you need and you can
space them out better in the future.
Once you have the piece from bottom of the
collar to end of piece measuring F- end your
rounds in the center (even with the seam)
with a sl st.
Second check: 3.5/F and still need another .5inch
increase for C- going well!
Final check: 4inch length gets me my F spot on-
and 8.5inch width doubled gets me the 17inchC
Finished and sl st in the center- ready to try it on!
Positioning the Leg Openings
Here you will want to pull out a big loop to
prevent any unraveling when you go to try it
on your model. Slip the sweater over your
dog's head and position the center seam at
the throat. The bottom edge should be just
to the legs with a little wiggle room.
Take your 4 clothespins and clip them on
just inside the front legs AND outside the
front legs about halfway up the shoulder.
The inside edge of the pin (toward the leg)
should line up with where you want it- NOT
the middle of the pin. (Which I did not do
perfectly, and I had to recheck it again!!!) If
your dog has had trouble with sweaters
being tight in the shoulder, give a little extra
Slip the sweater off carefully, being sure not
to dislodge your markers. Replace the
Pagan trying on her sweater. That clothespin on
clothespins with stitch markers four stitch
the far right is totally in the wrong place, but we're
markers INSIDE the clothespins.
going to fix that!!!
Stitch markers replace clothespins
DOUBLE CHECK! Count the spaces on each
side- make sure they are the same! Err on
the side of more room if they are not equal
and move your markers accordingly. At the
same time, be sure they are still centered on
either side of the chest. In the future, you
will know how many stitches to skip for leg
holes (using the same yarn and hook, of
NOTE: Place your markers in the first and last
course) and can skip the clothespin step
stitch you will skip. For Pagan's sweater, I skipped
10 stitches for each leg opening, so the marker is
in stitch 1 and 10- and I skip those entirely when
proceeding to the next step.
Beginning the leg openings
Row 1- ch2 to count as the HDC. HDC in
each space UP TO the marker. Ch'X' (X= the
number of stitches skipped from marker to
marker). HDC in the next stitch past the
marker and around, repeating for the next
pair of markers. HDC back to the center and
join at the top of the ch2 with a sl st. Ch2
Round 2- (working in rounds again
#This is more crochet math! Yay! Basically, the
beginning with the end of this row) HDC in
total length of the sweater is going to be B, which
every HDC and Chain around.
is the length of your dog's back. You've already
worked F (the length of the forechest) so subtract
Continue to hdc around until piece equals
that from B. (For Pagan, this is 13-4=9) Now HALF
of the remaining will be worked in rounds. The
remainder will be worked in dec. rows in order to
Once your sweater reaches the correct
form an open belly at the bottom end of the
length, end with a sl st in the center. Do not
sweater for free movement. (And boy dogs
appreciate this as it won't rub their parts and you'll
appreciate it as less weewee accidents and less
Pagan's Sweater before the decrease rounds for
the end of the sweater
Beginning the end of the sweater
Row 1- ch 2. HDCtog the next 2 stitches.
HDC around until the last 2 stitches. HDCtog
last 2 stitches. Ch 2 TURN
Row 2-? - Continue on each row in HDC,
HDCtog the first 2 and last 2 stitches each
row until sweater reaches B.
The sweater at B length (13 inches) before
finished edging or sleeves.
#To prevent gapping along the trim, place one sc
in the seam between HDC and one in the side of
Round 1- Ch 1. 2 sc in same stitch. sc in
the HDC, not AROUND the HDC.
each stitch across, 3sc in next corner.
Working down the sides, sc evenly spaced
2sc per side of each HDC# End with sc in
same st as beginning to complete corner. Sl
st to close. Ch 1. Do NOT Turn.
Round 2- Repeat Round 1, ending with a sl
st to close. FO, leaving long tail to weave in.
Sleeve (repeat for both sleeves)
Round 1- Join yarn to arm hole and ch2 to
count as 1st hdc. HDC around (In each hdc,
the side of both hdcand bottom of chain)-
placing 2 HDC in the sides of the HDC on
sleeve hole openings. Do not join, do not
turn. Use a stitch marker if needed to mark
Finished edging and sleeves added
beginning of rounds.
TIP on HDC in bottom of chain when adding the
Continue to HDC in rounds until sleeves are
sleeves: It is best to stitch through BOTH loops of
desired legnth. (I did 4 rows for Pagan's
chain that remain in order to make the sleeve
sweater) A good length sweater sleeve end
stronger. This may seam a little awkward at first,
before the elbow. Sl st in next st when
but once you get it started, it lines up well for the
sleeve is desired length.
next stitch. If you prefer, you can HDC BETWEEN
the HDC below the chain, though that is not as
Finish- 2 rows of sc as with bottom of
neat, but it's going to be in your dog's armpit, isn't
sweater. Sl st at end of last row, FO leaving
it? The point is to just make it hold strong-
a long tail to weave in using needle.
whichever way you prefer to do it.
FURTHER TIPS: If you need to join yarn- run out or are doing stripes, etc.- ALWAYS tie your
joins and THEN stitch the ends in to hide them. This will prevent future unraveling in a garment
that is not likely to be treated gently!
Weaving in ends TIP: Best to leave too much than too little. Weave back and forth a couple of
times or in different directions to prevent ends popping out in the future. Most likely this garment
will need to be washed often, so you want those ends to stay hidden forever!
Remember, this is a basic sweater- what I may do with it later to embellish it will likely turn it into
something entirely different. I encourage you to send in pictures of your sweaters when you have
them completed and share your ideas about color, pattern, decorations, etc. Check back later for
other people's ideas and more tips I will add on using fancier pattern stitches to make this
sweater into countless ideas!!!
Copyright 2009 CritterScoop.com
Please feel free to link to this pattern but do not reproduce it. Items made from this pattern are yours to
dispense of as you wish. It’s your work, after all, and I hope you enjoyed making it!