Istanbul Pocket city guide

Flashbooking free pocket guide of...booking has never been so quickIstanbulIn the words of French poet Alphonse de Lamartine, “if one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on Istanbul”. Indeed, this is a city of astonishing beauty. Its architecture, cuisine, history and culture make up a fascinating tapestry of yesterday and very much tomorrow.A metropolitan capital with an imperial history stretching back for over 1500 years, Istanbul is today the commercial, historical and cultural core of Turkey. But most of all, it’s a buzzing, living-breathing metropolis that is knocking at the doors of the European Union.ISTANBUL AT A GLANCE - THE OLD CITY - BEYOGLU AND THE MODERN DISTRICTS - ASIAN ISTANBUL - CLASSICS YOU CAN’T MISS - TRANSPORTS - EAT & DRINK - NIGHTLIFE - TURKISH BATHS - USEFUL INFOFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guide» ISTANBUL AT A to Monday, 9am to 4pm), hosting its huge dome and tall minarets, GLANCEthe ruins of the Great Palace of can be seen from virtually any Byzantium.point of the Old city. It’s actually The only city in the world to The best way to leave Sultanahmet more than a mosque, hosting straddle two continents, with one is through the imperial road of a Koranic school, a library, an arm reaching out to Asia and the Divan Yolu, maybe wandering hammam, some lodgings, and other to Europe, with the strait of in the hundreds of tiny back more. Not particularly beautiful Bosphorus in between. European streets that cover the area from the architectural point of Istanbul is itself divided by the between the Gran Bazaar and view, it’s actually interesting Golden Horn (Halic) into the Old Beyazit. Wherever you’re going, for the crowd of believers and City to the south, and Beyoglu you’ll soon end up crossing the student that populate it during and other modern districts to the central Beyazit Square, once the day. Not far away, up the north. If you’ve got limited time, the biggest of Istanbul. Here are hill, is Selimiye Camii (open the Old City is where you should the Beyazit Mosque and the every day except Monday, go first as it features all the main former palace that now hosts 9.30am to 4.30pm), popular for sights of the city, and it’s exactly Istanbul University, featuring its skilfully carved door. Walk from here that we start our a magnificent gate and the north and you’ll bump into two journey.wooden Beyazit Tower. Past the former Byzantine churches that Yokusu, ph. +90 212 5207740, University and the Suleymaniye » THE OLD CITYopen every day except Monday, Mosque (below you’ll find all Most of the popular sites of 9am to 4.30pm), comprising info on this mosque and the Istanbul are in Sultanahmet, twenty galleries with exhibits from bazaars), you’ll get to the buzzing the former heart of the Ottoman Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire area of Eminou. Situated on the Empire. The home of Topkapi and the many civilizations of west side of the Galata Bridge, Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Anatolia and ancient Egypt. Near Eminonu hosts busy ferry, tram Mosque, the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque is the Turkish and train stations. Its square the Basilica Cistern, Sultanahmet and Islamic Arts Museum features the Spice Bazar, a is a natural magnet to millions (Sultanahmet Meydani, open must see for any visitor, and of tourists (have a look to the every day except Monday, 9am the Mimar Sinan’s Yeni Camii “classics you can’t miss” section to 4.30pm): originally a palace (Yeni Camii Caddesi, 9.30am to have been converted into a for more details on these sites). during the Ottoman Empire, it is 4.30pm), whose minarets stand mosque, Fethiye Camii, and a But this is also the place to come now a museum hosting one of tall above the buzzing activities museum, the Pammakaristos if you’re looking for souvenirs the finest collections of Islamic of the place.museum (open every day except and carpets, restaurants and art in the world, with a superb If you’ve got time and are into Wednesday, 9.30am to 5pm, café, hotels and guest houses. display of ceramics, metalwork, mosques, you can visit the tickets to be bought in Hagia Two of the most important miniatures, calligraphy, textiles stretch of land between Eminonu Sophia). Further inland, and up museums of Istanbul are in and carpets. Not far away there’s and Ayvansaray. The Fatih another hill, is the Mihrimah Sultanahmet. Near the Topkapi the often-overlooked Mosaic Mehmet Camii (Macar Kardeşler Sultan Camii (Sulukule Caddesi), Palace there’s the Archeological Museum (Arasta Carsisi, ph. +90 Caddesi, open every day except featuring a 200-windows hall Museum (Osman Hamdi Bey 212 5181205, open Wednesday Friday, 9.30am to 4.30pm), with with marvellous paintings. Not Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guidefar away from it is the Chora Caddesi, ph. +90 212 3347300, is today Istanbul’s bohemian except Monday and Thursday, Church (Kariye Muzesi, open www.istanbulmodern.org, open quarter. From Tunel you can walk 9.30am to 4pm, group guided every day except Wednesday, every day except Monday, towards Taksim through Istiklal visits only, ticket from about 5€ to 9.30am to 4pm in winter and 10am to 6pm) the museum Caddesi, a real hub for shopping 9€). It’s an impressive baroque to 6pm in summer, ticket about of contemporary art housing and entertainment: fashion and rococo palace composed 5€), that is considered the most abstract paintings, portraits, shops, bookshops, cinemas, of three parts: the Selamlik (the interesting Byzantine church sculptures and photographs by restaurants and markets make of area once reserved for the men), after Hagia Sophia for its superb this fascinating street one of the the ceremonial halls and the frescoes and mosaics.most popular and crowded places Harem (the apartments of the Having gone that far, you can’t day and night. Here are also family of the Sultan). Its beauty miss the chance of going off the the fish market, some embassy lies in the crystal chandeliers, beaten track and discovering buildings and the churches of St. the carpets and the marvellous the marvellous 5th century city Mary’s Draperies (the oldest of garden, featuring a long pier and walls. Stretching for about 7km, the area, dating 1789) and the two monumental gates.from the Golden Horn to the Franciscan St. Antoine. Istiklal Past Besiktas, on the way that Sea of Marmara, they feature an Cadesi is entirely pedestrian leads up the hill to Levent, there is impressive number of towers and but watch out: some old and Ortakoy, a buzzing suburb on the gates. At the southern point of picturesque tramcars have been waterfront. The area is popular the walls are the pentagon inner local artists. If you walk further put again into service and now Fortress of the Seven Towers to the area of Galata, you can’t run up and down the street, (or “Yedikule”, open every day miss the 14th century Genoese- close by surrounded by the except Monday, 9.30am to 5pm) built Galata Tower (Galata crowd! Before leaving Istiklal and the Golden Gate, the most Kulesi Sokak, ph. +90 212 293 Caddesi you can walk behind the impressive within the walls.81 80, www.galatatower.net ), Galatasaray Lycee and have a that offers a spectacular view of look to the “French street”, one » BEYOGLU AND THE the city and is considered one of the most recent developments of MODERN DISTRICTSthe symbols of Istanbul.the area.If you’re tired and dislike Taksim, considered the centre Beyoglu looks like a European slopes, you can leave the area of modern Istanbul, is a huge district of a century ago. It’s of Galata using the Tunel, the open square with a monument among the locals, who come here the centre of the bohemian art world’s second oldest subway celebrating Attaturk. However, for its cafes, bars, restaurants scene, though at the same time (actually a funicular, built by the it’s got very little to offer: the and summer weekend markets. it’s modern and hip. If you reach French in 1875) and possibly new subway terminal, a noisy it by crossing the Galata Bridge the shortest, with it’s one-stop bus terminal and many five-star from the Old Town, you have to ride from Karakoy square to hotels. » ASIAN ISTANBULgo through Karakoy, a bustling Tunel square. The area of Tunel, In the close-by district of Kabatas, Tired of meeting fellow tourists? port with a lively fish market, a once an array of dark deserted on the waterfront, is the 19th Than you should visit the district hectic ferry terminal and a shady streets and creepy abandoned century Dolmabahce Palace of Uskudar, a relatively quiet nightlife. Here you’ll find Istanbul buildings, has undergone (Dolmabahce Caddesi, ph. +90 and attractive suburb at the Modern (Meclis-i Mebusan tremendous development and 212 2369000, open every day western edge of the Asian side. Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guideThough less visited, it offers 3€, Tuesday to Sunday, 12am to or 7pm in summer, ticket around from November to April, 9am to a large shopping area, flea 7pm) or a dinner (around 32€, 10€ for the entrance, 10€ for the 4.30pm, ticket around 11€ for the markets and old markets selling same days, from 8pm).museum and 10€ for the harem): entrance and 11€ for the gallery): traditional products. If you cross In Haydarpasa, south of Uskudar, the former home for the Ottoman one of the most incredible there’s a beautiful Prussian-style sultan is today a museum and a and significant architectural train station dating 1908, with symbol of Istanbul. Built in the monuments in the world, it an impressive facade covered in 15th century on the tip of land was originally a church, built textured sandstone.where the Golden Horn, the Sea by Justinian in the 4th century. Further south is the district of of Marmara and the Bosphorus 916 year later, Hagia Sophia Kadikoy, a lively area where come together, it was the was converted to a mosque tiny cobbled lanes are filled with political centre of the Ottoman and minarets were added to cafés, restaurants, bars, shops Empire between the 15th and 19th the original structure. In 1935 and cinemas. Fashion victims centuries. The palace is a maze of Ataturk declared it a museum, will enjoy Bagdat Caddesi and protected today by UNESCO. Bahariye Caddesi, two trendy Its main feature is a huge dome the Bosphorus by ferry, your first shopping streets, while more that seems to have no supports sight is the mosque of Mihrimah down-to-earth clothes can be but actually sits on pendentives, Camii, just opposite the ferry found in Gen Azim Gunduz.carrying the weight to four piers pier. Its vast porch is usually at the corners. Because of this crowded by old locals spending particular structure, together with time watching the passers-by. A the forty windows placed around few steps away are also other its base, the dome seems to be mosques, like the Yeni Valide floating upon four great arches, Camii, the Cinili Camii and the while a mystical light flows in. The vast Atik Valide Camii. Walk buildings built around a series of most interesting aspects of the southward along the shore and courtyards – typical of the Islamic internal features are the marbles you’ll find many restaurants and tradition – where are displayed and the restored Byzantine cafés with gorgeous views of the the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (the mosaics displayed in the gallery. Bosphorus. fourth largest diamond in the From there you can enjoy the world), the Topkapi Dagger (a gift Blue Mosque (At Meydani sight of the Maiden’s tower (or from Mahmut I), a vast collection Sokak 17, Sultanahmet, ph. +90 “Kiz Kulesi”, www.kizkulesi.com.of paintings and miniatures, 212 4580776, open every day, tr ), located on a small island at the » CLASSICS YOU and the Pavilion of the Holy closed daily during prayers, free entrance of the Bosphorus and CAN’T MISSMantle (including a footprint, a entrance): the most impressive used mainly as tourist attraction, Topkapi Palace (Babi Humayun tooth and a hair of the Prophet mosque of Istanbul was built café and restaurant. You can Caddesi, Gulhane, ph. +90 212 Mohammed). in the 17th century by order of reach it by boat, leaving from the 5120480, www.topkapisarayi.Sultan Ahmed I, after whom it southern part of Uskudar ferry gov.tr , open every day, close Hagia Sophia (Sultanahmet was named Sultanahmet Camii dock, with a ticket that includes on Tuesday from November to Meydani, ph. +90 212 5221750, – later dubbed “Blue mosque” transportation and a café (around March, 9am to 4.30pm in winter open every day, close on Monday for its interior ceramic tiles. The Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guideSerpentine Column, the Colossus The Bazaars: the Grand Bazaar days it is also popular for great or Column of Costantine (Kapali Carsi, Beyazit, www. varieties of lokum (Turkish Porphyrgenitus, and the rather mygrandbazaar.net) is claimed to delight), souvenirs, tea, herbs kitsch German Fountain.be one of the world’s oldest and and local delicacies. largest covered markets. The streets around it now host most Suleymaniye Mosque (Prof. of the real trading but the bazaar Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, is still the centre for jewellery, ph. +90 212 5140139): it’s the pottery, carpets and fabrics. The largest mosque in Istanbul bazaar contains two “bedestens” and one of the most beautiful. building features a square frame – domed masonry structures – Built in the 16th century by topped by an ascending system and hundreds of roads scattered the famous Turkish architect of domes and semi-domes that around them, each devoted Mimar Sinan, it’s considered his culminate in the central dome. to a particular trade. If all that masterpiece. It has four minarets Around 260 stained glass shopping, bargaining and fending with ten carved balconies, and a windows admit natural light, today off persuasive salesmen is a little magnificent dome. The weight of assisted by chandeliers. The Basilica Cistern (or “Yerebatan too tiring, you can relax, eat and the dome is carried by four piers visual effect of light flooding in the sarayi”, Yerebatan Caddesi 13, sip a tea in one of the traditional that get sharper upwards, thus gigantic dome is extraordinary. ph. +90 212 5221259, open making the structure look “as This is the only mosque in the every day, 9am to 5.30pm, light as feather.” The light comes world with six minarets, each of ticket around 10€): this bizarre in through the 138 windows, all them with three balconies: until “sunken palace” was built in the made with valuable glass. recently the “muezzin” or prayer- 6th century by Justinian I as an caller had to climb a narrow enlargement of an earlier cistern Beylerbeyi Sarayi (Bogazici spiral staircase five times a day built by emperor Constantine. Koprusu 1, ph. +90 216 3219320, to announce the call to prayer! It was meant to supply water open every day except Monday In summer nights, the mosque to the Great Palace and, later, and Tuesday, 9.30am to 5pm, is lit up with a colored lightshow to the Topkapi Palace. Once in accompanied by music, check disuse, it was restored about 20 near the entrance to find out years ago by removing mud and cafés dotted inside the bazaar. more.water and adding narrow raised The second bazaar of Istanbul is pathways providing access for the Egyptian Bazaar (or Spice Hippodrome (Atmeydani, in visitors. With its 335 columns Bazaar, Yeni Camii Caddesi, front of the Blue Mosque): though supporting its fine brick vaulting, open every day except Sunday) very little has remained of the the cistern offers a breathtaking constructed in the same complex beautiful 4th century hippodrome, view. Classical music concerts as the Yeni Camii. Here the air here there’s anyway the most are held here because of the is filled by the strong aroma of ancient monument of Istanbul, magical atmosphere and the ginger, cardamom, pepper and the Egyptian Obelisk. Other great acoustics. saffron coming from the piles of monuments of the area are the spices sold in the stalls. These Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guideticket around 5€): having to pick and info). A shorter tour (about and stopping in front of all main Eminou on the European side; the best sightseeing attraction of two hours) is run by Tur Yol, that sightseeing attractions. Tickets Uskudar and Kadikoy on the the Asian side of Istanbul, it would uses modern boats departing (about 0,7€ each), valid for a ride Asian side. Service runs every be this palace, built in 1861-1865. from Eminou dock. whatever the distance covered, 15-20 minutes until 11pm. Some Though it’s a typical Ottoman must be bought at stops.traditional old ferries are today palace, its style is very much A new funicular has been operated by the IDO company European, as well as much of the » TRANSPORTSinaugurated in 2006, connecting from the east side of Galata furniture. The two main parts are All right, you might be a good Kabatas, south of the Dolmabahce Bridge. The same company offers the selamlik (the area for public walker, but Istanbul’s so huge Palace, with Taksim Square also fast “sea buses” that are a business) and the harem (for that sooner or later you’ll have (ticket about 0,7€).bit more expensive than ferries. private business). Beylerbeyi’s go give up, so here are some tips The underground includes both Check http://www.ido.com.tr/ for main feature are the pavilions about getting around.the Tunel, the 19th century funicular updated timetables and info.located on the terraced gardens connecting Karakoy to Tunel, If you’re staying over for quite behind it: the Sari Kosk beside and the modern subway system, some time, it’s worth considering the pool on the upper terrace, and that is well under development. a pass – the Akbil. It can be the Mermer Koşk with its interior The latter is basically a two-line bought at any kiosk with a 4,5€ fountain and marble walls. Take system: a Metro line connecting deposit (keep the receipt if you your time in the garden, sit down Taksim to the commercial district want to have some chances to on the marble dock, observe the of Levent, and a line serving get it back!) and is accepted on Bosphorus in front of you… you the Old city and connecting it to Istanbul’s buses (both public won’t regret having gone that far the airport of Ataturk. Trains run and private), trams, Tunel, from the city centre! Buses are definitely the cheapest way to travel, though they are from 6am to about 12pm, ticket Metro, funicular, ferries and “sea around 0,7€.buses”.Bosphorus by boat: you usually overcrowded and it’s not For more info, maps and cannot leave Istanbul without a easy to find out which one you timetables of metro, tram and traditional and unforgettable boat should catch. For public buses funicular, check www.istanbul- » EAT & DRINKexcursion up the Bosphorus. (red), tickets must be bought at ulasim.com.tr/en.In the Old City:Those travelling on a shoestring kiosks before boarding, while An easy and pleasant way to Virtually all tourists end up in can board one of the passenger other buses (mainly green/blue), travel up, down and across the the restaurants and cafés of boats that regularly zigzag operated by private companies, Bosphorus is the ferry boat. Sultanahmet, so be ready to be along the shores – check out accept cash payment on the A very cheap ticket (0,7€ one hooked and dragged in. Though the “transports” chapter for bus. way, or little more, depending more details. But if you want the The best way to travel is actually on distances) allows you to proper cruise, you have a choice the tram: besides the nostalgic actually travel from Europe to of tours leaving from the main Isticklal Caddesi tram (running Asia and back! Tickets must be docks, Eminou in particular. The every day till midnight, tickets – bought at ferry docks, make sure IDO company runs a five-hour around 0,5€ – sold at the station you don’t buy them on board Bosphorus scenic tour with its kiosk), there’s a main line running from dodgy sellers. There are traditional old ferries (http://www. from Eminou/Sirkeci station to ten main ferry docks: Karakoy, ido.com.tr/ for updated timetables Zeytinburnu through the Old City, Kabatas, Besiktas and five in Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guidemost of the places have blended Mustantik Sokak 33), specializing Urban Café (Kartal Sokak 6/A), dishes, or the Buyuk Camlica Et their Ottoman traditions with a more in kebabs. In the area of Samatya, or the Mephisto (Istiklal Caddesi Lokantasi (Buyuk Camlica Caddesi international taste, you can still near the city walls and close to the 197), a funky place you reach 20, ph. +90 216 3183161), with a find some original Turkish cuisine. Sea of Marmara, there are plenty walking through a record shop. stunning view over the Bosphorus. For example at the Kosk Café & of typical restaurants that have the Another trendy place near Istiklal At the Olcay (Pasalimani Caddesi Restaurant (Akbiyik Caddesi, Adliye privilege of not being too touristy. Caddesi is the two-level Cep Art 62, 11am to midnight, ph. +90 216 Most of them serve delicious fish Café (Asmalimescit 41, open till 3339222) you can listen to live and dishes, like the Sedir (Buyukkuleli midnight, ph. +90 212 2920038), loud traditional Turkish music while Sokak 59, ph.+90 212 4584702) and that combines art gallery and café.having a good selection of meze the Safa (Ilyas Bey Caddesi 169, Many restaurants animate the dishes.Yedikule), while for meat and meze former flower market, Cicek Pasaji In Kadikoy, the Greenhouse Kitap your place is the Develi Restaurant (just off Istiklal Caddesi), like the (Balik Pazari Gumusyuzuk Sokak Kimene Restaurant and the Sevic 7, +90 212 5290833), with its Restaurant. Just behind Cicek refreshing rooftop terrace.Pasaji is a narrow but buzzing street, Nevizade Sokak, where you’ll find In Beyoglu and the modern plenty of restaurants, cafés and bars: districts:the Ney’le Ney’le has a romantic Sokak 9, ph. +90 212 5173479) and Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll atmosphere and a good menu of the Koy Sofrasi Ocakbasi (Kadirga find it in Istiklal Caddesi and the fish. Just around the corner is the Limani Caddesi 132, ph. +90 212 maze of streets around it. At the Ora Degustasyon (Balik Pazari, Sahne 5180315), offering a simple menu (Imam Adnan Sokak 4) there’s cheap Sokak 41, ph. +90 212 2920667) a and cheap dishes. The Rumeli Café but tasty food, lots of drinks and modest-looking place where one of (Divanyolu Caddesi, Ticarethane most of the time live music. There Turkey’s famous TV chefs prepares Sokak 8, ph.+90 212 5120008) is are concerts also at the Intermezzo a good range of Turkish mezes, a Turkish-Greek restaurant open till (Asmali Mescit Sokak 19), offering salads and fish dishes. late. If you want something different, simple Ottoman cuisine. Those who If you are in the Ortakoy area, try than try the Sarnic (Sogukcesme are into wine will love the Viktor Levi the Café Crème (Degirmen Sokak Sokagi, ph. +90 212 5133660, open Sarap Evi (Hamalbasi Caddesi 12), 12, ph. +90 212 2277294, 10am evening only, closed Monday and where local wines can be enjoyed to 11pm), a three-floored café with July), where you can have a candle- with various types of Turkish a soft ambience and a delicious lit dinner in a former cistern. If you cheese, or the Sappho Wine Bar Mediterranean cuisine.& Café (Dumlupinar Sokak 17, ph. happen to be near the Gran Bazaar, (Bekar Sokak 14, open 10am to +90 216 4493034, open Tuesday move away from the expensive 2am, ph. +90 212 2450668), a In the Asian side:to Saturday, 11am to 6.30pm) is restaurants and go to the peaceful dark wine cellar with exposed red- Being less touristy, you’ll find quite a a bookstore-café with a beautiful Daruzziyafe Restaurant (Sifahane brick and stone walls offering meze few cheap restaurants in this part of terrace where you can sip your Caddesi 6), with beautiful halls and dishes and an excellent selection of Istanbul. In Uskudar, try the Kanaat coffee. If you are looking for the porches.Turkish wines.Lokantasi (Selmanipak Caddesi unusual, try the Karga Café (Kadife In the area of Fatih there’s the Komur If you just need to sit down and have 25, ph. +90 216 3333791), an old Sokak 16, ph. +90 216 4491725, Lokantasi (Kucuk Mustafa Pasa, a coffee, try the former patisserie restaurant with lots of traditional 9am to 2am), a spooky café (the Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guidename means “raven”) serving area of Istiklal Caddesi. Many of Istanbul’s biggest underground light meals, desserts and coffee. clubs offer live music: electronic clubs: house and techno can be ENJOY YOUR HOOKA! Female solo travellers will enjoy music at Indigo (Akarsu Sokak 309, heard on Fridays, deep trance the Café Antre (Caferaga Mah., Galatasaray, ph. +90 212 2451307, on Saturdays and garage and Once upon a time, the narghile, 10am to 10pm, ph. +90 216 338 www.livingindigo.com), jazz and jazzy house on Wednesdays. The or Turkish water pipe, was the 3483) a female-friendly place run world music at Babylon (Seyhbender Reina (Muallim Naci Caddesi 10, centre of Istanbul’s social and by women for women, located in Sokak 3, ph. +90 212 2927368, www.reina.com.tr ) is actually a political life. Today the locals an old Ottoman townhouse. Nearby www.babylon-ist.com), rock music vast playground filled with bars, still consider it one of life’s great is the Mosquito Café (Caferaga at the Mojo (Buyukparmakkapi restaurants and dance floors.pleasures… want to give it a Mah., 9.30am to 10pm, ph. +90 216 Sokak 25, 9pm to 4am, ph. +90 212 try? Most of the places where 4185659) a student/hippie hang 2432927) and the Caravan Rock Bar » TURKISH BATHSyou can smoke a hooka are in out serving excellent cakes and (Duduodalari 19, Balik Pazari). The Yaniceriler Caddesi, near the desserts. Miss your pint? The Belfast popular Dulcinea (Meselik Sokak are mostly in the area of Sultanahmet, Gran Bazar: Corlulu Ali Pasa Pub (Caferaga Mah., ph. +90 216 20, open Monday to Saturday, though you should go somewhere and Koca Sinan Pasa Turbesi 4189706) might be Irish in name 3.30pm till late) is a bar, café, else if you are looking for the real are both in secluded internal only but it offers reasonably priced restaurant and art gallery during the thing. The Cagaloglu Hamami courts, just round the corner cold beer and soft background Irish week, but on Friday and Saturday (Prof. K.I. Gurkan Caddesi, near from some tomb yards, while music.it’s club night with trance and Hagia Sophia) is very touristy and Rumeli Kahvesi is actually techno music. For some fine jazz, expensive, but it’s also one of the inside the cemetery of an old » NIGHTLIFEon the top level of the two-floored oldest hammam of Istanbul. Better go for the Gedikpasa Hamami medersa, though it’s not as In Sultanahmet, Cheers (Akbiyik Jazz Café (Hasnun Galip Sokak 20) (Gedikpasa Caddesi) or the Nisanci spooky as you might think. Caddesi 20, open every day, 10am there’s a performance space where Hamami (Turkeli Caddesi), both In the south of Sultanahmet, to 2am, ph. +90 5324096359) offers you can enjoy live funk/acid jazz/near the sea, is Yeni Marmara the cheapest beers in town to a blues Tuesday through Thursday. (Cayiroglu Sokak), where you crowd of travellers. For something More jazz at the Gramofon (Tunel can also sit in the terrace and more typical, the Cagaloglu Meydani 3, 9am to 2am, ph. +90 enjoy the view. In Beyoglu, at the Hamami Café (Prof. K.I. Gurkan 212 2930786), a café by day and a Ortakahve (Buyukparmakkapi, Caddesi, Gagaloglu) is a café classy place to hang out and drink ph. +90 212 252 2629) there’s located in a former hammam, dating while listening to live jazz five nights even the choice of a wide range 1741, where you can listen to live a week.of flavours. traditional Turkish music. Also Sal In Besiktas, jazz lovers cannot miss (Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 18, ph. the Q Jazz Club (Ciragan Caddesi +90 212 243 4196) is very popular 84, 10am to 4am, ph. +90 212 with tourists seeking a true Turkish 2362121), a 17th century brick cellar experience. Here low coffee tables style bar that caters to the whims of bump your knees while you sip raki jazz fans. and watch some rowdy musicians.Two of the hottest clubs of Istanbul The liveliest part of the city is are in Ortakoy. The Scene (Muallim definitely Beyoglu and again the Naci Caddesi 109, midnight to 5am, ph. +90 212 2611988) is one Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.comFlashbooking - Your free Istanbul city guide» USEFUL INFOPhone numbers:Emergencies 112Police 155Information 118Tourism Information Office, Divanyolu Caddesi 3, Sultahahmet, ph. +90 212 5188754, open every quite old and typical, and preferred day 9am to 5pm.by the locals. These are all open Central Post Office, Yeni Postahane to men and women but this is not Caddesi, Sirkeci.the rule: elsewhere, remember to German Hospital, Siraselviler check at the entrance if women are Caddesi 119, +90 212 2932150admitted!American Hospital, Nisantasi Guzelbahce Sokak 20, ph. +90 212 2314050Tourism Police, Yerebatan Caddesi 2, Sultanahmet, ph. +90 212 5274503 or 5285369, to be contacted in case of theft or loss of documents, before going to the consulate.Flashbooking is a hostels and budget hotels booker that gives all independent travellers the unique opportunity to book their bed-nights online and worldwide with an immediate confirmed reservation.© Trenet srlCome visit: www.flashbooking.com and get: newsletter, travel guides, useful links, info on social project we sustain, events and more.Budget Online bookings - Cheap Hotels and Hostels in Istanbulwww.flashbooking.com