Luxury Accommodation New Zealand - Otahuna in Gourmet Traveller February 2011

GREAT
SOUTHERN
LAND Renowned for stylish digs, sublime local
fare and the kind of scenery that made
the country a movie star, New Zealand's
South Island also boasts a cast of highly
affordable luxury lodge experiences.
Rob Ingram stays at five of the best that
- best of all - won't break the bank.
Photography Sharyn Cairns
Built to shine
The formal dining
room at Otahuna
Lodge features rich
rimu panelling and
gilded wallpapers.
Azur luxury retreat
in Queenstown
(opposite) was built
to capture the spirit
of its environment.
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Earlier in the day it was gardener Steve
Marcham carrying a box of the day's harvest from the
vegetable garden. Now it's chef Jimmy McIntyre heading
back along the wooded pathway between the herb
garden and the homestead, scissors in one hand, a bou-
quet of fresh chives in the other. We see both McIntyre
and the chives 30 minutes later when guests emerge
from day excursions, fungi forages and veranda snoozes
for pre-dinner drinks in the drawing room. A fragrant Te
Whare Ra pinot gris arrives, immediately followed by
McIntyre with a platter of vol-au-vents fil ed with prawns
poached in Champagne and finely chopped chives. This
The mansion, built in 1895, virtually blows a bugled fanfare for British colonialism.
is lodge living New Zealand-style and, frankly, it rates
right up there with life's finer rituals.
Lodge hospitality is just another one of those things
at which New Zealand excels. I guess it grew out of a
long history of the rich, the royal and the respected
flocking to New Zealand's pristine environment to fish
for trophy trout, and leaving vestiges of their privilege
presented and highly engag-
on their favourite rubbing posts. However self-centred
ing young Americans rat-
their pleasures may have been, they sowed the seeds
tling around in a mansion
for a handful of precious properties that today respect
that virtual y blows a bugled
environment and culture and heritage. And, of course,
fanfare for British colonial-
the celestial union of the vol-au-vent and the pinot gris.
ism. If Gussie Fink-Nottle
Whatever - in New Zealand, there's no excuse for think-
himself joined them around
ing that rustic elegance is a contradiction.
the grand piano after din-
At the rarefied tip of the market - Kauri Cliffs and
ner no one would choke on
The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, to drop a couple of
their pistachio and orange-
desirable names - the rates can be as breathtaking as
blossom petits fours.
the views. The South Island, however, offers some ex-
But back to the wooded
cellent and diverse lodge experiences at prices that
pathway and the constant
constitute great value - at least until the New Zealand
arrival of fresh produce at the kitchen door. Despite the
dollar regains its composure. In the premier division
grandeur of the house, the luxury of its accommoda-
of Kiwi lodge luxury, a couple might pay $5500 for a
tion, and the sheer felicity of its hospitality, it's the link
suite, whereas our South Island recommendations
between kitchen and garden that provides Otahuna
start at $350.
with its defining moments. Call it paddock-to-plate or
The chef, the vol-au-vent and the pinot gris are
potager-to-plate, this is the agrarian dream being lived
merely a sub-plot of the cosseting charm of Otahuna
at its highest level. Head gardener Steve Marcham is
Lodge - the largest private historic residence in New
employing an organic and holistic approach to the re-
Zealand. In some ways, it is ironic that this lofty top
creation of an authentic Victorian country garden. There's
shelf of exclusive accommodation should flourish in
a melon house and a mushroom crypt, mulberries and
New Zealand. It has to be one of the most egalitarian
feijoas, companion plantings of flowers, vegetables and
societies in the world, and mostly because the working
herbs, cardoons and Jerusalem artichokes, exotic chil ies
classes never gave a bugger (to use the local vernacular)
and 20 different varieties of tomatoes. There's a chicken
how the other half lived.
coop for fresh eggs, and an orchard for apples, peaches,
A few (but not many, mind you) lived like parliamen-
pears, quince and even walnuts and hazelnuts.
Oh, Otahuna
tarian and pastoralist Sir Heaton Rhodes, for whom
It's a broad palette from which executive chef Jimmy
The Garret suite
Otahuna was built in 1895. It is tucked under the rocky
McIntyre and sous chef Jeremy Scheiblauer display their
at Otahuna (top)
foothills of Banks Peninsula, barely 30 minutes from
artistry in creating five-course degustation menus with
redefines attic chic.
Christchurch International Airport and from the city
wine pairings each evening. The artichokes arrive as roast
Owners Hall Cannon
itself. The residence has the highest rating with the New
Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil; the chil ies and
and Miles Refo and
chefs Jimmy McIntyre
Zealand Historic Places Trust and is regarded as the best
tomatoes as prawn- and tuna-filled Otahuna banana
and Jeremy Scheiblauer
example of Queen Anne architecture in New Zealand.
chil i on roast tomato sauce with guacamole; quince have
(above, from left) in the
Otahuna has operated as a luxury lodge since 2003,
become Tai Tapu duck with shal ot tart and pot-roast
gardens at Otahuna
and in August 2006, two former guests from New York - quince; New Zealand cheeses arrive with a pear and saf-
(right). Otahuna Lodge
Hall Cannon and Miles Refo - decided that buying the
fron paste; and hazelnuts have been transformed into
(opposite) offers the
property would offer them the perfect antidote for their
a semifreddo served with manuka honey roast figs.
best example of Queen
manic Manhattan routines. There's something subli-
Otahuna Lodge is a poor choice if you're looking
Anne architecture
mely Wodehouse-esque about these two immaculately
for a home away from home. It's much nicer than that.>
in New Zealand.
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Colour of contrast
The streets and jetties
of Queenstown entice
visitors year-round.
Hapuku's tree houses
(bottom, left) offer
guests an unforgettable
perspective of Kaikoura,
while Whare Kea Lodge
in Wanaka (bottom,
right) accommodates
just 12 guests at a time.
The view across Lake
Wakatipu, opposite.
Importance here is given to privacy and the sense of being embraced by the land's natural beauty.
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If you subscribe to those lists of things to do before you
preside over a property that keeps the eyebrows perma-
die, however, it should rate very highly.
nently elevated. The beautiful heritage-listed home-
At Hapuku Lodge, 15 minutes north of Kaikoura on
stead was built in 1866 from limestone quarried on the
the east coast, the theme changes from heritage to ecol-
property. Linking the original building with a two-storey
ogy, with many guests choosing accommodation in the
guest extension is a pavilion-style dining room, court-
tree houses built in a corridor of native manuka and
yard, breakfast conservatory and open kitchen. Decor
kowhai trees. Kaikoura was the second town in the
is sumptuously English country house, a rustic textural
world to earn Green Globe Benchmark status for its
quality permeating both the interior and exterior
sustainability initiatives, and the whole stretch of Kaik-
through the use of natural elements and lashings of rich
oura coast radiates a warm blanket of spirituality in the
rugs and floral prints. Guests are quickly bathed in a
locals' respect for the land and marine environment. Of
sense that Claremont is a sanctuary of the sort of coun-
the tree houses, owner Tony Wilson says, "We figured
try comfort that restricts movement to an occasional
the best way to fully appreciate the beauty of Kaikoura
grope at the decanter or the canape tray.
would be to be a bird. So we gave our guests the option
Then the topic of activities is raised, and Claremont
to live in the treetops; closer to the mountains, closer
reveals itself as a 1000-hectare sheep, cattle and deer
to the ocean, closer to the birds." On a 96-hectare strip
station plus a private nature reserve studded with hun-
of coastline on unspoiled Mangamaunu Bay, Wilson has
dreds of massive limestone marbles containing dinosaur
established the lodge, a deer farm, a grove of a thousand
fossils. In the country that bills itself as the youngest on
olive trees, a fruit orchard and a vineyard. Beachfront
earth, here in a dramatic fold in the hills are remains of
cabins are on the drawing board.
marine creatures which may be 72 million years old.
The Wilson name is one of the most prominent in
The fossil site is the highlight of a fascinating Land
New Zealand architecture, and a bold personal aes-
Rover safari adventure across the spectacular estate.
thetic is stamped throughout the lodge, from the exte-
There is river fishing, horse trekking and, for those who
rior shell to individual pieces of furniture. The passion
prefer to exercise elbows and palates, a host of wine
for wood is evident everywhere. The exterior cladding
tasting options.
Stapley's exemplary cooking at Whare Kea is full of local delicacies and modern sensibilities.
is North American cedar and the lodge flooring and
Queenstown is New Zealand's number one visitor
curved kitchen ceiling are Tasmanian oak. Elsewhere, destination - a year-round alpine resort set in the mag-
a handful of selected craftsmen have produced Wilson-
nificence of Lake Wakatipu and the peaks of the Remark-
designed furniture in local timbers.
ables mountain range. It didn't need to prove a thing,
The centrepiece of the main lodge building is a con-
but then the Azur luxury retreat came along and proved
temporary dining room where chef Rich Huber struts his
a few anyway. Importance here is given to privacy and a
stuff. Huber is a product of Cafe 150 in Northern Cali-
sense of being embraced by the natural beauty of the
fornia, which made a name for itself using only products
environment, so nine 75-square-metre villas are set
sourced within 150 miles. At Hapuku Lodge he probably
among native bushland high above the lake. They are
makes do with a radius of 25 miles (40km), serving great
constructed of cedar, silver beech and river rock and are
Kaikoura lobsters which come into the kitchen live, plus
graced with sleek interiors by Singapore-based design
local rib eye, venison, duck, lamb, salmon and mussels.
group LTW Design Works, whose credits include the Ori-
Addresses don't get much more Kiwi than 828 Ram
ental Bangkok and the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.
Paddock Road, but while it may indicate the location
Azur celebrates humans' ability to enhance the beau-
of one of the South Island's great country estate lodges,
ty of nature, and yet where it real y scores is in the excel-
nothing quite prepares you for Claremont. Here in North
lence of the guest experience - the positive attitude of a
Canterbury's Waipara Gorge, Richard and Rosie Goord
discreet and professional staff trained not only in "can do"
but "would you like us to". The main lodge building is
NZ on a plate
cleverly designed with mirrors and skylights to bring the
Dine out at one of
THE RISE OF MIDDLE EARTH
alpine scenery inside and the kitchen staff is on hand al
Kaikoura's many cafes
Australians are crossing the Tasman in record numbers, more than a mil ion last year,
day producing breakfasts, snacks, teas, coffees and cakes
(top), or eat in at
recent figures show."With the onset of the credit crunch, Aussies have discovered New
through to pre-dinner drinks and canapes.
Hapuku Lodge, which
Zealand in a big way," says Trevor Thomas, director of specialist travel company
For dinner, guests are encouraged to experience
offers local hapuku
Southern Crossings (see The Fine Print, page 148). "It ticks al the boxes - it's easy
Queenstown's food culture - international in standard
(above). At Whare Kea
access, meets the luxury standards, has great road networks with a wonderful variety of
and scope - which has grown up around a cosmopol-
Lodge (right), you'll
excursions and activities, including world-rated golf courses, and the sophistication of
the food and wine today is incredible." The rise of affordable luxury and the "long short
itan resort and a world-famous wine producing region.
meet chef James
break" have also contributed. "The approach has been clever in that in addition to the
The intimate V Know restaurant in Azur's Sunshine Bay
Stapley (top right).
`super' lodges, which are absolutely five-star plus, purpose-built B & Bs and country
neighbourhood, Bella Cucina, the legendary Botswana
Claremont Country
houses have been established to enhance and complement the lodge experience but
Butchery, Wai on the waterfront, The Bunker and
Estate (centre right)
with no compromise to quality and standard. The options are a jigsaw that can be
dates from 1866.
Gantleys are all highly recommended. Azur staff can
mixed and matched according to individual style and budget." EMMA VENTURA
Inside one of Azur's
provide preview menus and make reservations.>
villas (bottom right).
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Gourmet adventures
Enjoy Queenstown's
stunning alpine
scenery, or try its
culinary attractions
such as Botswana
Butchery (right).
working sheep station.
Beetroot-cured
From $780 per couple.
Aoraki salmon
State Hwy 73, Cass,
at Whare Kea
Canterbury, +64 3 318 8407,
Lodge (inset).
grasmere.co.nz
Matakauri Lodge offers
an organic spa with an
extensive menu of holistic
therapies. Suites from
$1015. Glenorchy Rd,
Closeburn, Queenstown,
+64 3 441 1008,
matakauri.co.nz
Release Lake Wanaka
showcases New Zealand
design and art and offers
commanding views over
Lake Wanaka and Mount
Aspiring National Park.
Hapuku Lodge &
From $800 for exclusive
Tree Houses Rooms from
use of the retreat (up to
$355. Station Rd, RD1
six adults). 9 Mt Gold
Kaikoura, +64 3 319 6559,
Place, Penrith Park,
hapukulodge.com
Wanaka, +64 21 762 695,
Otahuna Lodge
releasenz.com
From $1000 per couple.
The Resurgence, in
And just when you think you're becom-
224 Rhodes Rd, Tai Tapu,
Nelson's Abel Tasman
Christchurch, +64 3 329
National Park, is a luxury
ing part of the textural fabric of lodge life,
6333, otahuna.co.nz
bushland retreat noted
there's Whare Kea Lodge & Chalet. Ten
Whare Kea Lodge &
for its excellent food.
minutes' drive from Wanaka, the lodge
Chalet Less than an hour
Rooms from $400. Riwaka
appears to levitate above the lake, provid-
from Queenstown Airport.
Valley Road, RD3 Motueka,
ing epic water and mountain views, its
Rooms from $880.
Nelson, +64 3 528 4664,
geometric design reflecting the lake and valley light. THE FINE PRINT
494 Mt Aspiring Rd,
resurgence.co.nz
And high above it, 1750 metres up in the shadows of
Wanaka, +64 3 443 1400,
Select Braemar Lodge &
wharekealodge.com
Spa, 10 minutes from the
Mount Aspiring, Whare Kea Chalet provides luxury
Getting there
thermal resort of Hanmer
living where you least expect to find it, among major
Air New Zealand flies
Springs and 90 minutes
glaciers and permanent snow.
And also...
twice daily from Sydney
north of Christchurch, has
While on a climbing holiday, Whare Kea owner
to Christchurch and daily
Corstorphine House was
been transformed by a
Martyn Myer (of the retail dynasty) decided the eupho-
from Brisbane and
built in 1863 and has the
$16 million rebuild. From
ria of waking to a new day in a mountain hut should not
Melbourne, with regular
highest listing with the
$200 room-only.
only be experienced by mountaineers, and so the idea
connections to 26
New Zealand Historic
283 Medway Rd, Hanmer
destinations within New
Places Trust. Eight
Springs, +64 3 315 7555,
of Whare Kea Chalet was born. Guests fly in by helicop-
Zealand. Economy class
individually themed guest
selectbraemarlodge.com
ter for the overnight chalet experience or the "gourmet
return airfares start at
rooms. Rooms from $420.
Wanaka Lakehouse is an
lunch with altitude" and enjoy a standard of accommo-
$397 ex Melbourne, $395
23a Milburn St,
opulent, ecologically
dation consistent with that of the lodge itself.
ex Brisbane, and $403 ex
Corstorphine, Dunedin,
designed chalet featuring
Activities at the lodge don't get any better than the
Sydney (including all
+64 3 487 1000,
hand-carved beams,
half-hour walk along the lakeside Millennium Track to
taxes and surcharges).
corstorphine.co.nz
joinery and furniture. It,
Rippon, the world's most photographed vineyard, for a
132 476, airnewzealand.
Eichardt's Private Hotel
too, has spectacular lake
com.au
is at the epicentre of
and mountain views. From
pinot noir and an exaltation. The track goes all the way
Queenstown's bar and
$400 per couple.
to Wanaka, but no one's late back for pre-dinner drinks
dining action and reflects
27 Penrith Park Dr,
in front of the open fire and James Stapley's exemplary
Stay
contemporary provincial
Wanaka, +64 3 443 6568,
cooking. Beetroot-cured salmon with shaved fennel and
Azur Less than 30 minutes
elegance throughout its
wanakalakehouse.co.nz
blood orange; tea-smoked duck with persimmon, local
from Queenstown Airport.
five hotel suites and four
feta and hazelnuts; maybe wild venison with roast
Villas from $1000.
lakefront cottage suites.
Tours
Jerusalem artichokes and crisp pancetta; his food is a
23 Mackinnon Tce,
Suites from $932. Marine
Pde, Queenstown,
masterclass in pulling culinary elements together.
Sunshine Bay, Otago,
Southern Crossings tailor-
+64 3 409 0588, azur.co.nz
+64 3 441 0450,
makes travel experiences
Take 10 days and not only stay at a heritage lodge,
Claremont Estate
eichardtshotel.co.nz
in New Zealand, Australia
an eco-lodge, a country estate lodge, and lakeside and
Rooms from $405.
Grasmere Lodge, set
and the South Pacific, and
alpine resort lodges, but enjoy the satisfaction of know-
828 Ram Paddock Rd,
between Christchurch and
has offices in Sydney
ing that, while each is distinctly individual, all respect
RD2 Amberley, Canterbury,
the West Coast glaciers, is
and Auckland. (02) 9657
environment, culture and heritage - the principles of
+64 3 314 7559,
an award-winning high
2088, +64 9 309 5912,
sustainable tourism.*
claremont-estate.com
country retreat on a
southern-crossings.com
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