P-51D Mustang Instruction Manual

P-51D MUSTANG
.40 Size
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification In no case
shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
PO Box 788 Urbana IL 61801 (217) 398 8970
productsupport@greatplanes .com
P540P03 for GPMA0175 V1 1
Printed In USA
Entire Contents © Copyright 2001

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Assemble Upper Cowl . . . . . . . . . . 33
Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
FINAL ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Decisions You Must Make Now ... 4
Install Front Wing Fairing . . . . . . . . 34
Other Items Required . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Assemble Air Scoop Front . . . . . . . 34
Supplies and Tools Needed . . . . . . . 5
Install Wing Fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Abbreviations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Mount Stab and Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Types of Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Shaping and Sanding . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Get Ready to Build . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Install Pushrods and Radio . . . . . . . 37
Die Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Control Surface Throws . . . . . . . . . 39
TAIL FEATHERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Install Receiver, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Build the Fin and Rudder . . . . . . . . 7
Fit Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Build the Stabilizer and Elevators .. 8
FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Temporarily Install the Hinges .... 9
Additional Fuelproofing . . . . . . . . . 40
WING ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Balance the Airplane Laterally .... 40
Build the Wing Panels . . . . . . . . . . 10
Final Sanding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Join the Wing Panels . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Install Aileron Torque Rods . . . . . . 16
Glue the Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Sand Flat on TE ' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Apply Decals and Trim . . . . . . . . . . 42
Fiberglass the Center Section ..... 16
Install Pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Install Wing Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Glue Canopy in Place . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Install Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Wing Seating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Temporarily Install Wing Dowels .. 18
Re-install Engine & Radio . . . . . . . 44
Install Wing Bolt Plate . . . . . . . . . . 19
Balance Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Fill LG Slots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Final Hookups and Checks . . . . . . . 44
Install Landing Gear Covers . . . . . . 19
PRE-FLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Install Retracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . 21
Find a Safe Place to Fly . . . . . . . . . 45
Prepare Fuse Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Ground Check the Model . . . . . . . . 45
Prepare the Firewall . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Range Check Your Radio . . . . . . . . 45
Assemble Lower Fuselage . . . . . . . 23
Engine Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . 45
Drill Engine Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
AMA Safety Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Install Pushrod Guide Tubes . . . . . . 26
FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Mount Wing to Fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
CAUTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Fit Fuel Tank and Fuelproofing .... 29
FLIGHT TRIMMING . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Assemble Aft Deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
PARTS LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Assemble Front Deck . . . . . . . . . . . 31
3-VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
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WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and prop-
erty damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE -- to build this kit correctly,
properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and
fly it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety stan-
dards as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the
AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST START-
ING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY
OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262
INTRODUCTION
This is not a beginner's airplane! While the P-51D is
easy to build and flies great, we must discourage you from
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It is fast, highly
Planes P-51D Mustang!
maneuverable, and lacks the self-recovery characteristics of
a good basic trainer such as the Great Planes PT Series
airplanes. On the other hand, if you have already learned the
The Great Planes P-51D Mustang is a semi-scale (ap-
basics of R/C flying and you are able to safely handle an
proximately 1/8-scale) model of the full-size North American
"aileron trainer" airplane such as the Great Planes Trainer
Series or Big Stick Series airplanes, the P-51 D is an excellent
P-51D. The prototype as pictured on the box cover is not a
copy of any one full-size airplane in particular. Rather, we
choice.
selected several typical trim features from several aircraft,
making a good-looking and rather "generic" trim scheme that
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
typifies the Mustang we all know.
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad
Several full-size P-51 D Mustangs are shown on
to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please
the box side panel to give you an idea of the many trim
look up the part numbers and the kit identification num-
variations that have been used. If you are interested in
ber (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them
sport scale competition, or just want to copy a specific
ready when calling.
full-size trim scheme, you'll be happy to know that
color photos of these and MANY other P-51D Mus-
tangs are available from: Scale Model Research,
PRECAUTIONS
2334 Ticonderoga Way, Costa Mesa, CA 92626.
1. You must build the plane according to the plans and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
Unlike many other scale models, the Great Planes P-51D
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the
Mustang is easy to build and fly, predictable, highly aero-
plans and instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In
batic, and has no "bad habits," making it a great sport-scale
those instances you should assume the plans and written
airplane (as long as you don't get carried away with paint and
instructions are correct.
additions, making it a "lead sled")!. This model is designed
to be a great flying "sport airplane," one that you feel
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
comfortable with, flight after flight. It is not intended for
scale competition, but with a little extra work it should place
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
well in sport scale competitions at the local level.
condition, the correct sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
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4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the
a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
air.
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
5. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
performance or safety of your completed model.
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent help of
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
Snap the two mount halves together. Slide the
mount halves apart until the engine mounting lugs
will sit flat on the beams. Adjust the mount until
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
the firewall centerline (or offset line) is centered
.40* - .46 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
between the "tick" marks on the mount.
.60** - .70 cubic inch displacement 4-cycle
*NOTE: Performance may be marginal if a non-sch-
neurle-ported .40 cu.in. 2-Cycle engine is used.
NOTE: If you choose to power your P-51D with a 4-
**NOTE: The O.S. Max 48 Surpass also provides
cycle engine, keep in mind that the RPM of your engine
sufficient power to fly this airplane.
will be considerably less than that of a 2-Cycle engine;
therefore, you should select a higher pitch propeller to
NOTE: If you choose to side mount a 2-Cycle engine,
keep the speed and overall performance roughly equiva-
we recommend using a muffler that can be almost
lent to that of a 2-Cycle engine. For example, a 10x6 or
completely enclosed inside the cowl. The muffler used
10x7 prop would be used with a .40 (2-Cycle) engine; but
in one of our prototypes is a Tatone #11413 Pitts Style
a 12x8,11x9 or 10x10 prop may be the best choices for
Muffler for .29 - .40 engines. The muffler may require
a 4-cycle engine. The 4-blade prop shown on the
slight modification to fit your engine.
prototype is a mock-up for static display purposes only.
If you mount a 2-Cycle engine inverted or upright,
a standard muffler may be used. Complete enclosure of
the engine and exhaust requires inverted installation and
SELECTION OF WHEELS
a custom-made exhaust manifold.
To save weight, we recommend using lightweight
The engine you select will determine how you build
foam rubber wheels.
the fuselage, so it is important that you have the engine
2-1/2" diameter main wheels are recommended for
close at hand while building.
retracts (but 2-3/4" wheels will fit, and may be needed for
satisfactory operation on grass fields).
This kit includes the new Great Planes
2-3/4" diameter main wheels arc recommended for
Adjustable Engine mount. This mount will work on
normal sport flying with fixed landing gear (3" wheels
most .40-.60 2-Cycles and .40-.70 4-cycles. Cut or
may be needed for satisfactory operation on rough grass
break the "spreader bar" off each mount half.
fields).
Carefully trim any extra plastic off each mount half
3-1/4" scale wheels may be installed for maximum
left by the spreader bar. The surfaces where the
scale realism (such as Robart UX-325 diamond-tread
spreader bars were a t t a c h e d need to be very
scale wheels).
smooth to allow the mount halves to fit together.
A 1" diameter tailwheel is recommended.
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OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
0 Four-channel radio with 4 servos (additional channel and
0 2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
retract servo required if retracts are being used).
0 2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
0 2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy
0 Propellers (see engine instructions and above engine
0 2.5 oz. 30-Minute Epoxy
notes for recommended sizes).
0 Hand or Electric Drill
0 Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64", 5/32",
0 Spinner (2-3/4" diameter)
3/16", 13/64". 7/32", and 1/4"
0 Fuel Tank (10 ounce)
0 Sealing Iron
0 5/32" Wheel Collars - 4
0 Heat Gun
0 3/32" Wheel Collars - 2
0 Hobby Saw (Xacto Razor Saw)
0 Iron-on Covering Material
0 Xacto Knife, #11 Blades
0 Fuelproof Paint* for Cowl, Canopy, Exhaust Ports &
0 Pliers
Cannons
0 Screw Drivers
0 Silicone Fuel Tubing
0 T-Pins
0 Wing Seating Tape (or silicone sealer ... see instruc-
0 Straightedge
tions)
0 Masking Tape (Required for construction)
0 Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
0 Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
0 T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
0 Dubro "E-Z Connector" (optional)
0 Waxed Paper
0 Plastic Pilot: Williams Bros. "Standard, 2" Scale #176"
0 Lightweight Balsa Filler
(WWII Military Style)
0 1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
0 Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
0 Main Gear Retracts: (optional)
0 Isopropyi Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Mechanical:Dave Brown 2-Gear Main, B&D 85-
0 3M "77" Spray Adhesive (optional)
degree mechanical retracts, or equivalent.
0 Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
Pneumatic :Robart #606 85-degree mains, or equiva
lent (requires #188 air control kit)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and # 150-grit sandpa-
per. This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
*Note: Chevron "Perfect Paint" matches Super Monokote,
task. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
and is available in convenient spray cans.
handy for finish sanding before covering.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
GET READY TO BUILD
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev = Elevator
D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out
Fuse = Fuselage
to make them lie flat.
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
Ply = Plywood
the name of each pan by comparing it with the plans and the
Rt = Right
parts list at the back of this book. Using a felt tip pen, write
Stab = Stabilizer
the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later.
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6 to identify the die-
" =Inches
cut parts and mark them before punching out. Save all scraps.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
TYPES OF WOOD
force them! Instead, first cut around the pans with an Xacto
knife. After punching out the die-cut pans, use your T-Bar or
sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-
cutting irregularities.
D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing. Fin and stab
B A S S W O O D
(stabilizer), and hardware.
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DIE PATTERNS
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TAIL FEATHERS
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
To build the fin and rudder you'll need the following:
1/4" shaped balsa fin front
1/4" shaped balsa fin rear
D 7. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
1/4" shaped balsa rudder rear
the fin and rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry when
1/4" x 1-1/4" x 9-1/2" balsa sheet
sanding).
1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick
D 1. Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work
surface. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder
portion of the plan.
D 8. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper as shown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
3/32" wide and have a rounded shape. (Do not sand to a sharp
edge). Sand the bottom edge to a rounded shape. Sand the
leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan. Sand the
top and front edges of the fin to a rounded shape.
D 2. Working on a flat surface covered with waxed paper,
glue the fin front to the fin rear.
D 3. Using a T-bar or sanding block, sand both sides of
the fin smooth, then sand the outline of the fin to match the
plan.
D 4. Using the plan as a guide, glue the 1/4" x 1-1/4" x
9-1/2" balsa rudder front to the shaped balsa rudder rear,
lining up the top edges.
D 5. Cut a 2-1/4" length of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa, and glue it
D 9. Check the plans and mark the location of the tailgear*
to the top of the rudder.
on the rudder. Drill a 7/64" hole in the rudder (the hole is
drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and to create
a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire). Then groove the
D 6. Trim the edges of the rudder to match the plan, then
rudder leading edge to accept the tailgear wire. (See the
use your T-bar with medium grit sandpaper to sand both sides
photo at step 5 on page 18).
of the rudder smooth.
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D 3. Check the shaped balsa elevators and sand if neces-
sary to match the plan.
D 4. Draw a centerline all around the edges of the stab
and elevators.
D 5. Sand both sides of the elevators to a taper as shown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
3/32" wide and have a rounded shape (do not sand to a sharp
edge). Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the
plan.
D 6. Temporarily tape the elevators to the stab.
HINT: Using an Xacto knife, sharpen the inside of one
end of a 1/8" diameter brass tube, and use it to cut the groove
in the leading edge of the rudder.
*NOTE: The tailwheel location and installation shown
on the plan is designed for easy installation and durability.
and for the best possible ground handling characteristics.
However, if you are building your P-51 for sport scale
competition, you may want to install a tailgear (fixed or
retractable) in the "scale location" shown on the plan.
These instructions do not cover such a modification, but
the location is shown for your convenience.
D 7. Lay the 1/8" wire elevator joiner in place on the
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
elevators and mark its outline using a fine point felt-tip pen.
ELEVATORS
D 8. Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
To build the stab and elevators you'll need the following:
wire joiner. Begin by drilling a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole, then
1/4" shaped balsa stab front
drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8" with a 9/64" drill bit.
1/4" shaped balsa stab rear
(The hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning,
1/4" shaped balsa elevators
and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire).
1/8" bent wire elevator joiner
D 9. Using an Xacto knife, sharpen the inside of one end
of a 1/8" diameter brass tube and use it to cut grooves in the
D 1. Glue the stab front to the stab rear. Sand the
leading edge of the elevators to accept the joiner wire.
outline of the stab to match the plan, then sand both sides of
the stab smooth.
D 10. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper, then
clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove any oily
residue.
D 2. Sand the leading edge and ends to a rounded shape.
D 11. Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators, then glue
(Leave the center portion of the LE square).
it in using 5-minute or 30-minute epoxy. Work plenty of
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epoxy into the holes with a toothpick, then lay the elevator
leading edges along a straightedge to insure perfect align-
ment.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
(Do not glue)
NOTE: On an experimental basis, we have included
"laminated hinges" in this kit, and the following
instructions are written for this type of hinge. Our R&D
department has thoroughly tested these hinges and found
them to be easy to install and sufficiently strong and
durable for this type of airplane. However, as the kit
builder you arc reminded that you are ultimately responsible
for the structural integrity of your aircraft. If you are not
confident using this type of hinge, please feel free to
substitute your favorite hinge.
D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and
transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevators against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back
and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you
are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into
D 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
your hand before you know it! A good precaution is
and elevators in place on the fin and stab. Do not glue the
to wear leather gloves while performing the follow-
hinges until you are instructed to do so later in this book.
ing steps.
Hinge gluing instructions are included later.
D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, using an Xacto knife. The
recommended procedure for cutting hinge slots with an Xacto
WING
knife is given below.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit in the
NOTE: The following instructions explain how to build
trailing edge at the hinge location. This first cut is to
the wing on a flat surface, directly on the plans. An
establish your cut in the right place, so concentrate on
staying on the centerline and don't cut too deep!
alternate method is to use a Great Planes Wing Jig
(available from your local hobby dealer). Many expert
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line, going
modelers prefer to use a wing jig for high performance
slightly deeper each time. As you make these addi-
airplanes, as it helps to insure a straight, warp-free wing,
tional cuts, work on going straight into the wood. Con-
especially if you do not have a workbench or building
tinue this process while ''wiggling" the knife handle
board that is perfectly flat. If you choose to use the Wing
back and forth until the blade has reached the proper
Jig, please read the instructions that are included with the
depth for the hinge.
jig before beginning.
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BUILD THE WING PANELS
NOTE: If you will be installing a retractable landing
gear, disregard Step 6.
NOTE: It will be helpful to build the wing on a piece of
"Celotex"* or other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into
D 6. Note that the wing plan shows the location of the
which you may easily stick pins to firmly hold down the
main landing gear blocks. Note also that Ribs W-3 and W-4
wing parts while building, to avoid warps. *Available
have partial cutouts for the grooved landing gear block. If
you are building your plane with a fixed (not retractable)
from lumber companies and home centers.
landing gear, finish cutting out the notches in these ribs. (If
you will be installing retracts, do not cut out these notches).
D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wing drawing with waxed paper (so you won't glue the
wing to the plan!). NOTE: If your work space is limited, you
may cut the left and right wing half drawings apart.
D 2. The shaped and notched wing leading edges (LE)
and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by thin strips of
balsa. Separate them by folding until the balsa breaks, or by
cutting. Sand away the excess balsa that remains along the
edges after breaking them apart, using a T-bar with 100-grit
sandpaper.
D 3. Before using the 1/4" x 3/8" x 28" hard balsa spars,
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other imperfections.
D 7. Glue the die-cut 1/16" ply notched landing gear
If possible, position each spar so the imperfections (if any) are
doublers to ribs W-3 and W-4 (for fixed gear only). If
on the outer half of the wing panel (toward the tip), where they
installing retracts, you will later glue the other set of 1/16" ply
will be least affected by high stress. If the spars are warped
"nose rib doublers" to ribs W-4 and W-5. Be sure to glue them
slightly, try to "balance them out" by installing the warped
to the correct side of the ribs, as shown on the plan (make a
spars in opposite directions (see sketch). NOTICE: If you
right and a left set). Sand the doublers even with the edge of
feel that any of the wing parts are unusable due to severe
the ribs.
warps or other defects, give us a call and we'll replace the
parts.
T W O WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
D 8. Prepare the leading edge sheeting by trimming the
THIS W A Y WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WINO
3/32" x 2-7/8" x 28" balsa sheets as shown in the following
sketch.
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS W A Y WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
D 4. Find the four 1/8" x 3/8" x 13" hard balsa spar
doublers. Sand one end of each spar doubler to a taper as
shown in the "Wing Spar Detail" on the plan. Glue the spar
NOTE: Follow steps 9 through 36 to build the
doublers to the spars, and sand off any excess glue.
RIGHT wing panel, then repeat these steps to
build the LEFT wing panel.
D 5. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
D D 9. Pin one of the spars to the plan with the spar
doubler up and toward the root. NOTE: The spars are cut
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