Traditional Crafts of Timor Leste: A Marketing Overview

Traditional Crafts
of Timor Leste:
A Marketing Overview

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Table of Contents
Acronyms
2
Project Background
3
Summary
3
Summary of Findings
4
Introduction
5
Economic Situtation of Women in East Timor
5
Methodology
5
Groups involved in District Workshops
7
Dili Based Groups Involved in the Research
7
Marketing Bodies
7
NGOs and Donor Organisations
7
Socioeconomic Situation
8
Social, Historical and Economic Significance of Crafts Within Local Communities
8
Role of Women and Tais Within East Timorese Communities
8
Geography of Tais Production
9
Designs, Influences, Origins and Cultural Associations
9
The Evolution of Tais
9
Production Methods
10
Time and Cost of Production
10
Raw Materials
11
Other Materials - Silk
11
Times of Year for Production
11
Tais Production and Marketing Prior to the 1999 Ballot
12
Tais Production and Marketing During the Transitional Period (Oct 1999 to May 2002)
12
Personal Testimonies from Producers
12
Donor Support for Tais Production
13
Project Constraints and Issues Overlooked
15
Current Marketing
15
Domestic Marketing
16
District Marketing
16
Tais Market, Dili
16
Tais Shops, Dili
16
International Marketing
17
Current Buyers and Distribution of Products in Australia
17
Price Structures
18
Distribution of Profits
18
Transportation of Tais Products into Australia
18
Current Transport Options
19
Least Expensive Transport Options
19
Import Documentation, Taxes and Tariffs
19
Government of East Timor Comment
20
Future of the Domestic Market
20
Future of the International Market
20
Analysis
21
Recommendations by Producer Groups
22
Training
22
Recommendations to Government
23
Strategies to Support Women’s Groups Producing Traditional Crafts
23
Follow-up Strategies
24
Notes
24

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Acronyms
APSC.TL
Asia Pacific Support Collective Timor Lorosae
ACS
Australian Customs Service
AQIS
Australian Quarantine & Inspection Services
AUSAID
Australian Agency for International Development
CIDA
Canadian International Development Agency
ETWAVE
East Timorese women against violence
FOB
Free on Board
GST
Goods and Services Tax
IFAT
International Federation of Alternative Trade
IKFET
Industria Kik Feto East Timor
IRC
International Rescue Committee
LAHO
Loron Aban Hahu Ohin
METHS
Melbourne East Timorese Handicrafts Support
NGO
Non government organization
OMT
Organisasaun del Mulheres Timorense
OPMT
Organisasaun Popular de Mulheres Timorense
OTL
Oportunidade Timor Lorosae
PKF
Peace Keeping Force
QUIPS
Quick Impact Projects
RMIT
Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology
UNHCR
United Nations High Commission for Refugees
UNICEF
United Nations International Children’s Emergency Fund
UNTAET
United Nations Transitional Authority for East Timor
USAID
United States Agency for International Development
The staff of the Marketing Overview would like to thank all those who
provided support and assistance to this project: Oxfam (OGB, OHK and
OCAA); The Alola Foundation - Kirsty Sword, Amanda Smith and Albina
Freitas; The Asia Pacific Support Collective Timor Lorosae - Beba
Sequiera and staff; the training consultant - Toola Andrianopolous; OMT
and OPMT representatives and members; METHS - Sarah Niner and
committee members; RMIT students - Pierre Masclef and Kosintr
Puongsophol; Linda Chambers; Julie Emery; Alix Mandelson; and all oth-
ers who contributed time and information. We would like to extend thanks
to those who participated in the workshops and the research process,
and those who kindly shared with us historical and cultural information
and personal testimonies. Also a special ‘Obrigada barak’ to the women
of East Timor. DFID, OGB and OHK provided the funds for this project.
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Project Background
marketing tais in Australia and by a report drafted by
two business students2 at the Royal Melbourne
Institute of Technology (RMIT). The RMIT report
In October 2001, an exhibition of East Timorese
contains additional information regarding the current
traditional hand woven cloth called tais was displayed
market for tais in Australia, transport options from
during the Melbourne International Arts Festival in
Dili to Melbourne, relevant customs duties/tariffs and
Australia. The exhibition was warmly received by the
regulations, quarantine requirements, and an analysis
Melbourne community generating interest and support
of competing products and recommendations.
from a variety of individuals, local government
councils, NGOs, unions and other organizations. A
meeting was held in November 2001 to bring together
Summary
a range of interested parties, and the “Melbourne East
Timorese Handicrafts Support” (METHS) collective
The ongoing international response following the post-
was formed. One of the objectives of the collective is
ballot violence in East Timor in 1999 has included a
to investigate the possibilities of supporting tais
number of projects aimed at revitalizing cultural
production groups in East Timor, through exploring
industries as a strategy to generate income for women.
the viability of exporting tais products to Australia while
However, it has become evident that many of the
maintaining a culturally sensitive and long-term
production groups have experienced difficulties
approach.
identifying markets and retailing the produce generated
from these projects. Domestic demand for tais
This Marketing Overview has been initiated in
products is limited and currently aimed at international
response to the objective of the METHS collective
personnel stationed in East Timor. As the international
and has focused on tais production and marketing.
community in East Timor scales down (scaling down
The concept for the project is a result of discussions
accelerated with independence on 20 May 2002),
between METHS, The Alola Foundation (based in East
domestic demand for tais products is expected to
Timor’s capital, Dili), Oxfam East Timor (staff based
decline. Although there are some small-scale projects
in Dili) and an independent consultant1.
linking a limited number of producers to buyers in
Australia, there is at present no existing infrastructure
The Marketing Overview proposal was designed and
or policy environment for international export. In order
developed by the consultant in November 2001.
to improve the viability of projects supporting
Financial, logistical and report editing support was
production of cultural products, and to provide genuine
provided by Oxfam Great Britain and Oxfam Hong
income generation opportunities for women, alternative
Kong and logistical and in-kind support provided by
marketing strategies are critical.
the Alola Foundation and the Asia Pacific Support
Collective Timor Loro’sae (APSC.TL). Representatives
This Study has focused primarily on the tais industry.
from these four organisations also provided guidance
Research has encompassed the historic and cultural
to the project through the project steering committee
relevance of tais, the current production system,
which met regularly throughout the project
marketing (both domestic and to Australia), the current
implementation period.
constraints and future areas of research required. The
methodology employed for the research has been
Additional information regarding the existing
qualitative and participatory, engaging producer groups
Australian distribution network of tais, has been
in seven districts, marketing bodies, national and
provided by METHS, various persons active in
international NGOs, donor bodies and government.
Overarching Goal3:
To identify viable economic opportunities and elevate the status of women involved in traditional crafts industries
of East Timor, focusing on production of tais.
Aims of This Study :
To investigate the current marketing of tais products and recommend potential marketing strategies which
reflect the priorities and needs of the producers including preservation of the cultural significance of East
Timorese traditional industries. Objectives were:
1. To gain a comprehensive understanding of the historical and social context of tais as a cultural product.
2. To collect current information regarding the current situation of the tais industry.
3. To give voice to those currently involved at all levels of production, management and marketing of tais.
4. To investigate the current export market to Australia, identifying constraints and opportunities.
5. To identify training needs and sources for product development support.
6. To provide an accurate and current source of information to those stakeholders interested in developing the
tais industry including national and international NGOs, trade and export organizations and government
departments.
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Summary of Findings
Development of the tais industry has the potential
appropriate attention is given to issues of ethical
to provide economic improvement to a vulnerable
management, transparency and responsibility,
and marginalized section of society and
ownership, cultural sensitivity and sustainability.
represents an opportunity to preserve or revitalize
traditional production methods and motifs.
Research participants identified that their potential
and immediate opportunities for income generation
There has been increasing interest in establishing
are based on their skills in tais production.
export markets from various business enterprises
Knowledge of traditional designs and techniques
and organizations.
still exist and women are
However, sustainable
enthusiastic to utilize these
development of the tais
skills and to pass them on
industry (including all
to future generations.
stages of production
and international
Production groups
marketing) will require
acknowledge that the lack
further analysis into
of organizational structure
production issues and
and business knowledge
potential domestic and
limits the group’s capacity
international markets.
to turn their skills into a
profitable income generation
At present there are
activity. Both producer and
small-scale linkages
marketing groups have
between producers in
requested training in basic
several districts and
business management
interested groups and
Senora Lorensa Lela
(such as accounting,
buyers in Australia.
costing, marketing and
These linkages are informal and rely heavily on
communications), quality control and product
individuals. There has not been any significant
development.
mainstream retailing of tais products in Australia
to date.
The difficulties that were most regularly voiced
by producers both in Dili and the districts were
Further research is required to better assess
limited financial support and resources, time
export markets in Australia and elsewhere such
constraints for production and limited marketing
as the U.S.A. and Europe (both with strong
opportunities.
currencies and large art and handicraft markets).
In particular, two types of international markets
Recommendations to government from district and
should be further investigated – a market for
Dili based producer groups and national NGOs,
functional or decorative products incorporating tais
focused on the need to enact legislation in order
fabric (such as bedspreads, pillow covers, clothes
to protect and preserve the tais industry as a
etc) and a niche collectors market for tais made
cultural product of East Timor.
using traditional methods and incorporating
location specific motifs.
The preservation of traditional knowledge and art
is immeasurable in its value as a heritage resource
Inclusive consultation with those who would be
for future generations. Tais and other handicrafts
involved in all levels of production and
are an invaluable expression of traditional
management is fundamental to ensure that
knowledge and East Timorese culture.
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Due to the high rate of illiteracy and limited access to
Introduction
education for women (only 39% of adult women are
considered literate4), opportunities for income
Women in East Timor have traditionally provided the
generation have been limited to activities such as
mainstay of essential cultural industries that provide
operating small kiosks to sell basic necessities,
products such as textiles, carvings and ceramics. One
sewing, and handicrafts.
of the most prominent of these traditional crafts is
the hand woven fabric called tais.
Women in East Timor have endured years of violent
oppression, abuse of human rights, displacement and
sexual violence. Women-headed households (through
abandonment or as widows) are particularly vulnerable
with limited economic and material means to survive.
It is estimated that 10% of households in 2002 are
women-headed5. Economic opportunities that are
appropriate for women’s skill and levels of education
and that can assist women in achieving self-sufficiency
within the household are essential.
Methodology
The research and consultation have focused on the
existing local networks of tais producers and marketing
Ceramics and woven baskets in market in Dili
groups in East Timor. The approach, focus and
Tais are the basis of the East Timorese traditional
methodology utilized was qualitative, participatory,
clothing and costume, and originally were produced
inclusive and engaging, taking into account the varied
in two main styles, male and female. The mane (male)
levels of literacy and education of the members of the
tais are a large piece of cloth worn in sarong style
producer and marketing groups.
around the man’s waist. The feto (female) tais have
the ends of the cloths sewn together and resemble a
Research participants were identified through the
long tube in which a woman steps into and wears like
assistance of the Alola Foundation and APSC.TL as
a dress. In recent years an addition to these two styles
well as through other women’s organizations such as
is the selendang, a long slender piece of cloth used
the OMT (Organisasaun del Mulheres Timorense) and
for giving tribute by placing ceremoniously around the
OPMT (Organisasaun Popular de Mulheres
neck.
Timorense)6. Two East Timorese staff were trained
and involved in the design of the participatory research
Designs and colours are specifically associated with
methods used, including participatory workshops and
districts and illustrate the environmental, cultural and
personal interviews. This has allowed for a genuine
linguistic differences between districts and the
building of trust and confidence for participants involved
communities that inhabit them. It is through the art of
in the workshops to speak openly, share information
tais production that a woven narration of the paradigms
and give personal testimonies. It has also assisted
and stories of East Timor’s history have been
with language, logistical and cultural issues and
recorded. The cultural relevance of tais to the East
maximized integrity of the project with the local
Timorese people, combined with the significance of
communities.
preserving traditional crafts and knowledge of
indigenous people, has been the inspiration and
motivation for conducting this study.
Economic Situation of Women in East
Timor
The traditional role of women in the household and
community has played a large part in determining
women’s previous involvement in economic activities.
Most rural women are engaged in subsistence
agricultural activities. Women and children have
responsibility for a large proportion of daily activities
such as collecting fuel-wood and water and caring for
livestock and some food crops.
Hanging mane tais
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to them and practical ways they can realize those
opportunities.
4.
Halimar Lao Ba Oin (walk forward): an active game
aimed at assisting the workshop facilitators to
readdress areas they felt were not fully covered
or explained, and an opportunity for the
participants to realize the knowledge and skills
within their group.
Dili based producer groups were also consulted and
an interview method was employed covering the same
focus areas as in the workshops.
The secondary target group for consultation were
Traders at the tais market in Dili
organizations, retail outlets, markets and individual
sellers who are currently engaged in domestic
The primary target group for the research were
marketing of tais. For these groups interviews were
producers themselves. The focus was on developing
conducted covering a specific range of questions and
a thorough understanding of the production process,
topics including :-
including the capacity to produce and market products
Geographic location of tais sourced by the
and the constraints on production and marketing. Only
marketing body
groups currently producing and marketing were
The arrangement between producer and marketing
selected for the research to enable the team to gain
body
an accurate and current understanding of the tais
Previous and current levels of sales in the
industry.
domestic market
Personal opinions and knowledge of the marketing
The activities for the participatory workshops were
body
designed by staff and a training consultant and were
initially piloted in Baucau district in May 2002.
The third target group for consultation were national
Information collected during the workshops included:
NGOs and donor organisations who have previously
The history of tais and their evolution during the
or are currently involved in supporting or funding tais
different periods (Portuguese, Indonesian and
production groups and the Secretary of State for
Transitional)
Industry and Tourism7. Interviews were conducted
The cultural and social relevance of tais to the
focusing on the following :
East Timorese people
Aim and objectives of the organization
The production process
What support or funding was made available to
Knowledge and techniques employed such as
producer groups ?
traditional methods of spinning and dying thread
What technical support was made available ?
and weaving
What marketing strategies were employed ?
The current economic situation of producer groups
Personal opinions and experiences of working with
The constraints, opportunities and aspirations of
producer groups
producer groups
What future support to producer groups can be
The current marketing situation
offered by these organizations
Recommendations from the groups
The one-day district workshops consisted of four
main activities:
1.
Halimar Konensemento (game to get to know
each other): an interactive activity aimed at
allowing the facilitators and participants to
familiarize themselves with each other.
2.
Paradigma (paradigms): the large group was
divided into three and each group was requested
to draw and explain tais production and the social
context of a different period :- Portuguese,
Indonesian and transitional.
3.
Difficuldade ho opportunidade (difficulties and
opportunities): In a large group participants were
requested to identify constraints and strengths
of their group, the opportunities they see available
Participants in the Dili workshop
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Groups Involved in District Workshops
Group Name
Location/District
Date
Number
Grupo Naroman
Suco Bucoli/Baucau
28/05/02
28
NGO LAHO
Suco Triloka/Baucau
29/05/02
5
Grupu Dame
Suco Baguia/Baucau
30/05/02
6
Fitun Naroman
Suco Lore1/Los Palos
07/06/02
16
OMT (FF)/ Rai Naroman
Los Palos
08/06/02
15
Grupo Memo
Maliana
21/06/02
9
Grupu Ritabou /Lahomea
Maliana
22/06/02
21
Boy malae
Suai
04/07/02
8
Grupu Senora Ermelinda
Suai
05/07/02
9
OMT Maqelap
Oe-cusse
24/07/02
18
Box Sufa Feto Faluk Maqelap
Oe-cusse
25/07/02
17
Grupu Senora Leonia de Araujo
Ainaro
30/07/02
37
Grupu Maulo
Ainaro
31/07/02
20
Dili Based Groups Involved in the Research
Person Interviewed
Group Name
Location
Date
Sabina Koio
Moris hamutuk
Bekorak
26/05/02
Angelica Cardos
Grupu Aimutin
Aimutin
14/06/02
Marta Soares
Karya Indah Bebonok
Bebonok
17/06/02
Fransisca Cardoso
Tais Bebonok
Bebonok
17/06/02
Rosalia Dos Reis
Lases
Bebonok
26/06/02
Lydia de yesus
Garuda 1
Batais
26/06/02
Lorensa Lela
Buras Tais
Tai Besi
27/06/02
Maria Fatima Pinto
Fundasaun Hari Aumetan
Bekora
08/08/02
Marketing Bodies
Category
Location
Dates
Number
Stall owners
Tais Market Dili
16/07/02
5
Street sellers
Dili
15/07/02
5
Tais shops
Dili
17/07/02-05/08/02
4
NGOs and Donor Organisations
Name of Organisation
Date
UNICEF
22/07/02
CIDA
22/07/02
UNHCR
06/08/02
AUSAID
02/07/02
USAID
02/07/02
Madre Canosian Sisters
12/07/02
Timor Aid Tais Workshop
19/07/02
Fokupers
06/08/02
APSC. TL
06/08/02
ETWAVE- East Timorese women against violence
12/07/02
IKFET- Industria Kik Feto East Timor
07/08/02
Yayasan Murak Rai
25/07/02
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Socioeconomic Situation
pieces used for giving tribute at ceremonies also
became popular during this time. As tais became
Social, Historical and Economic
available for sale, men became involved in the
marketing and production of tais.
Significance of Crafts Within Local
Communities
During Indonesian times the constraints to production
The designs and techniques to produce tais have been
were many, including the difficulty and expense of
handed down a matrilineal lineage since before the
transportation from the districts as well as the general
time of Portuguese colonialism in East Timor. During
need to prioritise access to food and attend to issues
the colonial period producing tais was considered to
of security. During the latter period of the Indonesian
be women’s work. Grandmothers would sit to weave
period as violence and destruction became more
and teach the craft to younger women, under the
widespread, the supply of traditional raw materials
traditional adat houses, while grandfathers and
such as cotton and plants for making dyes began to
younger men carried out other activities. The term
diminish. This is attributed to increased use of
adat refers to traditional customs and
pesticides and defoliants as well as
the adat house refers to the
burning of vegetation. In addition,
community ceremonial building.
Indonesian threads became more
available in shops and markets and
Tais were produced mostly as
appeared to be a quicker and easier
common clothing in the mane/feto
option for weavers.
(male/female) style. Specific pieces
of significant value were produced and
Reports on prices paid for commercial
used in traditional adat ceremonies.
thread and for tais during the later
During marriage negotiations, the
period of Indonesian occupation vary
bride’s family provides a tais set
greatly and are difficult to standardise
consisting of both mane and feto tais,
due to the large fluctuation in
and the groom’s family provides
exchange rates. For commercial
livestock and money as well as other
thread the price for one skein varied
assets. Before the 1970s it was
from Rp 350 to 5,000 and for large
reported that all women knew how to
packets of skeins from Rp 50,000 to
weave tais, and it was considered by
200,000. For tais, prices vary between
many to be a prerequisite for
districts and were estimated to range
marriage.
between Rp 250,000 and 500,000 for
mane tais, from Rp150,000 to 200,000
Tais were also used on occasions
for feto tais, and from Rp 100,000 to
Working with traditional cotton
such as funerals and the kor-metan
250,000 for Selendang.
ceremonies (a funeral anniversary held one year after
a person’s death). Other than through these pro-
Role of Women and Tais Within East
cesses tais were generally not a trade commodity to
Timorese Communities
be bartered or sold. The weavers themselves tradi-
tionally produced raw materials such as cotton fibre
East Timor is a nation that has strong Catholic
and plant dyes. Although commercially produced
institutions and religious practices. In many places,
threads from Portugal and Indonesia were available
Catholicism is coupled with traditional animist beliefs.
these were not generally purchased as it was consid-
Social structures are intricate and tightly connected.
ered an expensive luxury.
Families are usually extended and not always limited
to first kin relationships due to the inclusion within
Tais production became more prominent as an income
families of some of the many orphans, widows and
generation activity during the period of the Indonesian
displaced people from the period prior to and during
occupation in East Timor (1975 to 1999). Many
the violence of 1999.
producers have commented that although fluctuating
and unreliable, tais prices during the transitional period
In East Timor, women play a key role in family and
(late 1999-May 2002) have been considerably higher
community life, including an often unrecognized role
than during Indonesian times due the presence of
in subsistence agricultural activities and small scale
international personnel able to pay higher prices.
economic initiatives. Women headed households are
However the market was more stable during the
common. At the core of East Timorese society is the
Indonesian period as the main clientele were
family unit and the institution of marriage. Tais hold
Indonesian military personnel who were stationed in
an important place in marriage arrangements and
East Timor in large numbers.
ceremonies, especially in district areas. Quality tais
for adat ceremonies are still sought after, with master
Colours, designs and motifs were adjusted to requests
weavers (male and female) holding an esteemed place
from customers. Selendangs the long slender tais
within communities in recognition of their skills.
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