wood work basics

The Art of Woodworking -
Beginners Guide
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Table of Contents
Introduction To Woodworking.......................................................................... 3
Safety First.........................................................................................................5
Hardwoods Vs Softwoods................................................................................. 8
Various Styles Of Saws................................................................................... 11
Measure Twice, Cut Once .............................................................................. 13
Chisel Basics ...................................................................................................16
Choosing Hand Tools...................................................................................... 18
Adhesives For Woodworking.......................................................................... 20
Sharpening Tools - Get To The Point............................................................. 22
Making Joints...................................................................................................24
Deciding What To Build..................................................................................27
Creating Working Drawings............................................................................29
Finishes And Fillers.........................................................................................31
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Introduction To Woodworking
Woodworking encompasses a great number of diverse activities, including
turning, woodcarving, marquetry, cabinetmaking and joinery, however, every
specialist craftsman or craftswoman has at some time mastered the
fundamentals of measuring and marking, dimensioning, assembling and finishing
- considered the basics of woodworking skills that are the core of any
woodworking calling.
The ability to think in three dimensions is needed to mark out the wood for a
project and to imagine how one component fits with another and in what order is
required of a woodworker. You will also need to know which tools will give the
best results, depending on the level of accuracy required and the properties of
the wood you are using.
Dimensioning is the process of reducing raw materials accurately to size. This
almost invariably entails planning components square and true - a procedure
that is simple in principle but takes a lot of practice to become perfect.

Cutting and assembling a variety of joints are part of all but the simplest of
woodworking projects. Long been regarded as a measure of a woodworker's
skills, joinery needs a steady hand-eye coordination, but experience will tell you
the best way to fasten one piece of wood to another attractively and discreetly
without sacrificing strength.
One necessary addition to these pivotal skills is an appreciation of how wood
behaves. It is a unique, living material that continues to swell and contract with
changes in humidity, a factor that a woodworker must deal with in the design and
construction of every project. Some woods are easier to work with than others,
and each piece, regardless of the species, is exclusive in the way the grain turns
and twists.
There is no one right way to do anything in woodworking. The right way is the
way that works best for you and what works best is a balance between the time
something takes, the tools available, the pleasure you take in the process and
the quality of results you are looking for.
There are arguments for both the use of hand tools and the use of machines for
woodworking. Some say that using hand tools allow you to develop the `knack' of
cutting and shaping wood without tearing the grain. While other woodworking
experts proclaim that you can often complete a project in less time with hand
tools because of the set up required for the mechanical tools. Others believe just
the opposite. We will discuss both options, hand tools and machine tools in this
book.
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With a little patience, the right tool and techniques and a good set of plans, you
don't have to be Bob Villa to build something you'll treasure for years to come.
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Safety First
Any discussion of woodworking machinery should begin with shop safety; hand
tools require safety precautions as well. Woodworking machines are made to cut,
chop, abrade, slice, drill and shave materials that are considerably harder then
human skin. When used carelessly, machines are dangerous and when used
properly, machines can be a wonderful help.
Wherever woodworkers gather, stories of accidents and near-misses come up
sooner or later. Perhaps the term `accident' is misleading here because `accident'
implies the injured person is a `victim' of circumstances beyond their control; in
most cases, it may be more appropriate to say that the `perpetrator' suffers the
consequences of his or her own carelessness.
Consciousness of safety is the first requirement of good craftsmanship. Here are
several things you can do to protect yourself while working with wood, either with
machines or hand tools.
* Wear hearing and eye protection when using saws, routers, sanders and
other equipment. To keep splinters and dust out of your eyes, use large
plastic safety goggles, a face shield or safety glasses.
1. Goggles - the rigid lenses of safety goggles are surrounded by a
soft plastic frame that fits and seals against the contours of your
face. The sides are ventilated to prevent condensation and they
can be worn over prescription eye glasses.
2. Hearing protectors - earplugs and padded ear muffs protect your
hearing from overexposure to noise. Always wear protectors when
using noisy power tools that could cause long-term damage to your
hearing.
* Keep your workshop area clean and neat so you won't trip over a scrap of
wood or an extension cord at an inconvenient moment.
* Tie up long hair; don't wear loose-fitting clothing or any jewelry. All of
these items can get caught in the machines and drag you towards the
blades or other sharp parts.
* Don't use machinery when you are tired or have consumed alcohol - any
amount of alcohol, even a little bit is too much for operating machinery.
This type of machinery is dangerous enough when you are fully alert, so
why increase the odds of an accident?
* Focus on what you are doing at all times and take a break if you mind
starts to wonder. You are most likely to have an accident when performing
the same operation over and over again. Walk away for a few minutes
between cuts.
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* If you are not comfortable making a cut or aren't sure if a particular cut is
safe, get advice or help before you try it. Find a friendly woodworker to
ask, perhaps at the local high school or college.
* Keep saw blades sharp. The harder you have to push, the less control you
have over the wood. This can cause slips and loss of fingers or worse
* Be prepared for accidents. Consider these questions:
1. Where is your telephone?
2. Where is your first aide kit? - You should always have an extensive
first aide kit available at all times.
3. Where is the nearest person who can help you? - You should
never be alone while woodworking.
4. Can you give clear directions to your shop over the telephone?
5. Are you familiar with basic tourniquet and first-aid techniques?
* If a serious accident does occur, call 911, not your friend. Your friend will
not be able to help you if you suddenly go into shock on the way to the
hospital.
* If you should be unfortunate as to sever any fingers, take them with you to
the hospital in case they can be reattached. Severed fingers should be
wrapped in gauze and soaked in a cup of salty water that is kept cold in
ice; the fingers should never touch the ice.
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Health concerns -
Breathing sawdust is not healthy; it can be allergenic, toxic and carcinogenic.
The sawdust from some imported woods, including teak, is particularly harmful
and is know to cause skin rashes and repertory problems several studies have
shown that woodworkers have a high rate of nasal cancers.
Because even a little sawdust can clog sinuses and aggravate allergies, try to
wear a mask whenever you make dust, whether it's from machinery or
sandpaper or sweeping the floor. Masks range from thin paper with an elastic
strap to the thick rubber with a replaceable toxic-fume-proof filter. They heavy-
duty masks are generally unpleasant to wear so some compromise will need to
be made between efficiency and comfort.
Some of the solvents and finishes used in furniture finishing are also allergenic,
toxic and carcinogenic. Petroleum distillates in commercial oil finishes, naphtha
and benzene are all suspicious of contamination. Because many of these
solvents are toxic to the human body by breathing or through skin contact, it's a
good idea to wear rubber gloves and a toxic-vapor mask when working with
them.
Wood shop accidents happen in an instant, especially with power tools. The
results can be irreversible and even life-threatening. Your first line of defense
against mishaps is really simple; Think Before Acting. Respect the capabilities
and dangers of your tools and know how to use them safely.
Plan your work so you can get help lifting or moving heavy objects. Set high
standards for tool maintenance and operations. Never use dull blades or bits.
Remove guards and other safety devices only when absolutely necessary. And
keep your work area clear of debris and clutter.
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Hardwoods Vs Softwoods
Lumber can be grouped into two broad categories - softwoods and hardwoods -
based on a botanical distinction. Hardwoods are those species that come from
leaf-bearing trees that produce flowers, fruits or nuts. Common North American
hardwood lumber includes maple, oak, ash, walnut, cherry, beech, birch and
poplar.
There are many less common Western hardwoods as well, like butternut,
mesquite, holly, pear and sycamore. Other countries log innumerable hardwood
species as well. Some of these exotics include teak, mahogany, ebony,
rosewood, bubinga, purpleheart and pear. These exotic woods can be purchased
through the Internet or specialty catalogs; however, they are pricey and may only
come in a limited size.
Softwoods come from the large family of cone-bearing trees that bear needles
rather than leaves. Firs and pines of all sorts, redwood, cedar and cypress are
typical North American softwoods made into board lumber. Because these
species are well suited for construction purposes, all lumber used fro framing and
roughing construction comes from softwood trees.
They are sufficiently strong for structural applications, yet are easy to work with
common hand or power tools. Another advantage is that cone-bearing trees grow
rapidly and develop straighter trunks and branches than the hardwoods. And
finally, more softwood trees can be planted per acre than hardwood trees so they
produce a higher lumber yield in less time.
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Common misconceptions -
It is a common misconception that hardwoods are called hardwood because the
wood is hard, while softwood is so named because they are soft. it is true that
many hardwoods are more difficult to machine than softwoods, however the
distinction actually has nothing to do with the hardness or workability.
Southern yellow pine, for example, is heavy dense softwood used for stair treads
and large framing lumber. It machines and accepts fasteners in a manner like
that of hardwoods. Walnut and poplar are common hardwoods, but they can be
routed and sawn as easily as cedar or redwood.
Even pricing is not a good indicator of hardwoods or softwoods. More softwood is
manufactured into building materials than furniture-grade lumber, but what dose
become lumber can be quite expensive. Take for instance, clear sugar pine
lumber, it is just as costly as premium cherry or white oak.
Actually, the basic economics of supply and demand have more to do with
lumber pricing than the particular species of wood or even it's grade designation.
Choosing what to use -
Woodworking projects can use both softwoods and hardwoods. Generally,
hardwoods end up as indoor projects such as furniture, trim-work, cabinetry and
turnings because the wood grain and figures are highly desirable. Softwoods
tend to become outdoor furniture, children's projects such as tree houses and
other sorts of utility or painted projects. These are merely general guidelines. If
money is no object, you can build children's furniture from practically any
furniture-grad lumber you have.
The answer to - what species should I choose for a particular project? - is not
cut and dried.
Ask yourself a few questions -
* Is this an indoor or outdoor project? Most wood will degrade over time in
the presence of water or ultra violet sunlight. Moisture is another `deadly'
threat to wood; it invites mold and wood-boring insects. Some of the most
durable outdoor woods include western red cedar, cypress, white oak and
redwood. These lumbers contain natural oils or profiling compounds that
resist rot and help repel insects. Boatbuilding woods such as mahogany
and teak are excellent choices, although they are much more expensive
than the common weather-resistant species.
Consider using a pressure-treated wood if you are not using it for food or
contact with skin (such as a chair or bench). It takes paint well once the
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infused chemicals dry and the wood tends to be warranted fro decades
against rotting. Be careful and wear a dust respirator when machining
pressure-treated lumber to keep from inhaling the sawdust, which contains
the treating chemicals.
* Will the project be painted or receive a clear finish? For painted projects,
choose wood that has a smooth texture without a heavy grain pattern.
Ideally, the lumber should sand and finish so smoothly that the grain
entirely disappears. Good paint-grade hardwoods include birch, aspen
and birch. These also tend to be less expensive than hardwoods with
more attractive wood grain patterns. Softwoods generally produce a
blotchy, uneven tone when they are finished with a stain, but they make
excellent economical painted woods. Pines, firs and other `white woods'
are good candidates fro paint finishes.
* What thickness and proportions of lumber does your project require?
Nearly all the board lumber you will find in a home center or lumberyard
will be milled to 3/4-inch thickness. There could be a small amount of `craft'
woods in 1/4-inch thickness made of oak or poplar as well as laminated
blanks in a few sizes up to 3 inches thick. Lengths of `craft' woods will be
limited to about 3 feet. Some projects require large panel such as tables
and entertainment centers and if you don't own a jointer and clamps to
glue your own wide panels from narrower boards, your local home store
probably stocks pre-glued sanded panels as wide as 3 feet and up to 8
feet long.
* Which project parts will show? Commonly practiced in furniture building is
to use a secondary or cheaper lumber on the insides and backs of pieces
and the more expensive, nicer wood on the outer areas of the furniture.
Places that secondary wood might be used are drawers, shelves inside a
cabinet, the backs of cabinets and desks, under the tabletop, legs, etc.
Poplar and pine are often integrated into projects as secondary wood
pieces.
* What does your budget allow? Lumber is expensive, particularly if you buy
it completely surfaced. Sometimes sticker shock will push you over the
edge and make your choice of lumber obvious. When tallying up the
amount of lumber you will need, factor in another 20 to 30 percent
additional wood. The overage invariably gets used in the end. If the price
is out of reach, consider using a more economical wood and staining it to
match the color of a more expensive wood.
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